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[title] => U restoranu koji je nudi kao specijalitet doznali smo kako se priprema najbolja hercegovačka pura. Dva su načina...
[alias] => u-restoranu-koji-je-nudi-kao-specijalitet-doznali-smo-kako-se-priprema-najbolja-hercegovacka-pura-dva-su-nacina
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Koliko smo puta u životu čuli: Idemo na pizzu? Ili kavu, burek, ćevape, pa i neku finćukastiju klopu poput ribe, bifteka, neke fine salate? Jamačno bezbroj. No, koliko smo puta dobili poziv: Idemo na puru? Hajmo pogoditi – nikad.
E, nakon što ovo pročitate i informirate se (a sasvim sigurno i malo ogladnite usput) taj bi poziv od srca mogli uputiti nekome koga želite lijepo i sa stilom počastiti.
U muzeju duhana Tabak u Ljubuškom, staroj manufakturi koja uz muzejski ima i restoranski prostor, puru kao nekoć sirotinjsko jelo nude na – skoro – fine dining pijedestalu. Govorimo o namirnici koja je – uz raštiku i, posredno, duhan – prehranila Hercegovinu, a ni susjedni ruralni dijelovi Hrvatske nisu daleko od iste formule preživljavanja.
Dakle, skromnu, ali zlatnu puru, figurativno rečeno, u "Tabaku" su obasjali svjetlima reflektora, dali joj na važnosti, ponudili je pripremljenu po starinski, te – da ne bude zabune – zadržali cjenovno pristupačnom. Iz optike hrvatskih cijena, svi znamo, one u susjednoj Bosni i Hercegovini generalno su povoljnije, no skoro je nevjerojatno da ćete porciju pure o kojoj pričamo – ukusne i veoma zdrave – platiti tek nekoliko eura!
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Naravno, postoje "cake", ali ništa strašno, pojasnit ćemo ih. U tome će nam pomoći voditelj restorana Tomislav Radić.
Pura i palenta nisu isto!
– Morate znati da pura i palenta nisu isto: palenta je instant-jelo, s prerađenim zrnom, dok je pura doslovce kukuruz grubo mljeven na kamenu, u našem slučaju. Nekoć je bio pravo žuto zlato koje je prehranilo ljude, mi pazimo da je ta osnovna sirovina ista kao nekoć i zato ga kupujemo u mlinu Krešić, Struge kod Čapljine. Duplo je skuplje od finog bijelog brašna iz dućana, ali ovom kukuruznom nema premca – zaljubljeno će Radić.
Jela od pure ponuđena su kao dnevna jela petkom (i prodaju se, najmanje 50 porcija "ode"), za ostale dane potrebno ih je naručiti barem nekoliko sati ranije jer je proces kuhanja vremenski zahtjevan; miješa se u vrućoj vodi barem sat vremena, dok tekstura pure ne postane...
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– Mora bit prpasta (rastresita, nap. a.), onako, sva ko u grudicama. To je važno, jer se onda polijeva umacima po želji – sažima Radić, koji nam je u kuhinji uz pomoć ljubazne mlade kuharice demonstrirao način pripreme. Pura se u kipuću vodu ulijeva okomito, dok vrh stošca ne izviri iz vode. Taj se vršak potom zarezuje u križ, i ne dira do novog zarezivanja. To bi bilo to "miješanje", naime puru treba stalno držati na oku, a jednostavno zarezivanje mase omogućava kontrolirano prožimanje sirovine s vodom uz pripuštanje zraka.
– U procesu kuhanja ide litra vode plus pola kile brašna (pure). Kuhari – naše majke i bake najčešće – znali su te omjere odokativno. Vrenjem i ukuhavanjem se postiže "prpastost", jel, rastresitost smjese. Tako se radi u nas u Hercegovini – veli.
Pusti pamuk, drž‘ se kukuruza
Osvrnuo se i na povijest sadnje kukuruza u doba socijalizma i bivše države.
– Bio je donesen dekret da trećina zemljišta mora bit zasađena pamukom, zbog prodaje, ali to se našim ljudima nije mililo; oni bi, uz duhan koji je dobro uspijevao, radije tu zasadili žito, da prehrane sebe i ono malo stoke što su imali, najčešće jednu kravu. Zato su kriomice znali posadit kukuruza, jer je bio zasitniji od pšenice (kao i ječam, također cijenjen u narodu kao "sita biljka"). Uz mlijeko od one krave, mogao je taj kukuruz najesti familiju – sažima naš sugovornik.
A propos tog mlijeka, dolazimo do prvog starinskog, ponovo popularnog (i, vjerujte, jako ukusnog) umaka za onu "prpastu" puru. To je lučenica, naime preljev od "kiseline" to jest kiselog mlijeka u kojemu se nalazi još i saransak (češnjak), zaprženi maslac i sol.
Bez papra, ističu, točan razlog ne znaju. Možda ga nekoć na selu jednostavno nije bilo? Svakako, tko voli može dodati i malo aromatičnog, mljevenog šarenog ili crnog papra u lučnicu iliti lučenicu (vjerojatno korijen riječi formulira riječ "luk", to jest bijeli luk – češnjak).
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Drugi preljev za puru je – kaša, kukuruzna kaša koja se u ranijoj fazi kuhanja izuzima iz lonca. Ta se rijetka smjesa obogaćuje komadićima nekog suhog mesa, na "učvrkanom" to jest poprženom maslacu malo se zavrti onoga čega se "ima u kući" – pancete ili pečenice – doda se u kašu još i koja kap octa za kiselost, i tako aromatizirana smjesa postaje drugi preljev za prpastu puru. Teško se odlučiti koji je ukusniji, vjerujte! Osobno, za nižepotpisanu ipak jezičac na vagi donosi sitnu prevagu u korist lučenice. Mogli bismo pojesti nekoliko tanjura!
Sad dolazimo do detalja vezanog uz normative. Porcija pure s lučenicom dostatna je, bez pretjerivanja, za marendu trojici manovala (fizičkih radnika), ili recimo četirima ženama prosječnog apetita. Porcije su uistinu goleme! A ukoliko se pura naručuje à la carte mimo dnevne ponude, dakle u danima osim petka (tada imaju i brojne terenske dostave ovog starinskog jela!), uvjet su četiri porcije. Ukratko, možete dovesti pola firme na team-biulding uz puru, sigurno desetak ljudi može se čestito najesti za, suma sumarum, dvadesetak eura (ta golema porcija stoji pet eura, to jest deset konvertibilnih maraka). To je ta "caka".
– Kukuruz, to jest pura se jela i kao slatko – ako bi u kući bilo meda. Šećera nije bilo, pčelari su znali imati meda za sebe, pa bi tako puru nekad prelili s malo meda, žlicom maslaca. To je bio jedini desert, uz koju smokvu ili kakvo drugo voće, koji su ljudi imali nekoć – podsjeća Radić na još jedan aspekt konzumacije.
U restoranu još nemaju deserte bazirane na puri, ali rade na njihovu osmišljavanju, poručili su.
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title=U restoranu koji je nudi kao specijalitet doznali smo kako se priprema najbolja hercegovačka pura. Dva su načina...
page_title=U restoranu koji je nudi kao specijalitet doznali smo kako se priprema najbolja hercegovačka pura. Dva su načina...
[metakey] => pura, palenta, Restoran Tabak, ljubuški
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Katarina Vuk\u0161i\u0107 s porcijom pure s lu\u010denicom<\/p>","
Ovo nije hrana, ovo je koncentrat zdravlja - pura s lu\u010denicom i ka\u0161om<\/p>","
Ljubu\u0161ki restoran i muzej \u2018Tabak\u2018<\/p>","
Pura mora bit \u2018prpasta\u2018 (rastresita, nap. a.), onako, sva ko u grudicama. To je va\u017eno, jer se onda polijeva umacima po \u017eelji, govore me\u0161tri od ku\u017eine<\/p>","","
Lu\u010denica<\/p>","
Priprema pure<\/p>","
Uspi, pa mi\u0161aj - Katarina Vuk\u0161i\u0107 u akciji<\/p>","
Voila, sve je gotovo...<\/p>","","","
Evo poslastice - lu\u010denica s karameliziranim maslacem<\/p>","
Me\u0161tri od spize i pure - Ben\u0111amin Tomi\u0107 i Tomislav Radi\u0107<\/p>","
Pura s lu\u010denicom<\/p>","
Pura s lu\u010denicom
","
Restoran \u2018Tabak\u2018 petkom vonja po puri<\/p>","
Pura s lu\u010denicom<\/p>","
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Koliko smo puta u životu čuli: Idemo na pizzu? Ili kavu, burek, ćevape, pa i neku finćukastiju klopu poput ribe, bifteka, neke fine salate? Jamačno bezbroj. No, koliko smo puta dobili poziv: Idemo na puru? Hajmo pogoditi – nikad.
E, nakon što ovo pročitate i informirate se (a sasvim sigurno i malo ogladnite usput) taj bi poziv od srca mogli uputiti nekome koga želite lijepo i sa stilom počastiti.
U muzeju duhana Tabak u Ljubuškom, staroj manufakturi koja uz muzejski ima i restoranski prostor, puru kao nekoć sirotinjsko jelo nude na – skoro – fine dining pijedestalu. Govorimo o namirnici koja je – uz raštiku i, posredno, duhan – prehranila Hercegovinu, a ni susjedni ruralni dijelovi Hrvatske nisu daleko od iste formule preživljavanja.
Dakle, skromnu, ali zlatnu puru, figurativno rečeno, u "Tabaku" su obasjali svjetlima reflektora, dali joj na važnosti, ponudili je pripremljenu po starinski, te – da ne bude zabune – zadržali cjenovno pristupačnom. Iz optike hrvatskih cijena, svi znamo, one u susjednoj Bosni i Hercegovini generalno su povoljnije, no skoro je nevjerojatno da ćete porciju pure o kojoj pričamo – ukusne i veoma zdrave – platiti tek nekoliko eura!
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Naravno, postoje "cake", ali ništa strašno, pojasnit ćemo ih. U tome će nam pomoći voditelj restorana Tomislav Radić.
Pura i palenta nisu isto!
– Morate znati da pura i palenta nisu isto: palenta je instant-jelo, s prerađenim zrnom, dok je pura doslovce kukuruz grubo mljeven na kamenu, u našem slučaju. Nekoć je bio pravo žuto zlato koje je prehranilo ljude, mi pazimo da je ta osnovna sirovina ista kao nekoć i zato ga kupujemo u mlinu Krešić, Struge kod Čapljine. Duplo je skuplje od finog bijelog brašna iz dućana, ali ovom kukuruznom nema premca – zaljubljeno će Radić.
Jela od pure ponuđena su kao dnevna jela petkom (i prodaju se, najmanje 50 porcija "ode"), za ostale dane potrebno ih je naručiti barem nekoliko sati ranije jer je proces kuhanja vremenski zahtjevan; miješa se u vrućoj vodi barem sat vremena, dok tekstura pure ne postane...
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– Mora bit prpasta (rastresita, nap. a.), onako, sva ko u grudicama. To je važno, jer se onda polijeva umacima po želji – sažima Radić, koji nam je u kuhinji uz pomoć ljubazne mlade kuharice demonstrirao način pripreme. Pura se u kipuću vodu ulijeva okomito, dok vrh stošca ne izviri iz vode. Taj se vršak potom zarezuje u križ, i ne dira do novog zarezivanja. To bi bilo to "miješanje", naime puru treba stalno držati na oku, a jednostavno zarezivanje mase omogućava kontrolirano prožimanje sirovine s vodom uz pripuštanje zraka.
– U procesu kuhanja ide litra vode plus pola kile brašna (pure). Kuhari – naše majke i bake najčešće – znali su te omjere odokativno. Vrenjem i ukuhavanjem se postiže "prpastost", jel, rastresitost smjese. Tako se radi u nas u Hercegovini – veli.
Pusti pamuk, drž‘ se kukuruza
Osvrnuo se i na povijest sadnje kukuruza u doba socijalizma i bivše države.
– Bio je donesen dekret da trećina zemljišta mora bit zasađena pamukom, zbog prodaje, ali to se našim ljudima nije mililo; oni bi, uz duhan koji je dobro uspijevao, radije tu zasadili žito, da prehrane sebe i ono malo stoke što su imali, najčešće jednu kravu. Zato su kriomice znali posadit kukuruza, jer je bio zasitniji od pšenice (kao i ječam, također cijenjen u narodu kao "sita biljka"). Uz mlijeko od one krave, mogao je taj kukuruz najesti familiju – sažima naš sugovornik.
A propos tog mlijeka, dolazimo do prvog starinskog, ponovo popularnog (i, vjerujte, jako ukusnog) umaka za onu "prpastu" puru. To je lučenica, naime preljev od "kiseline" to jest kiselog mlijeka u kojemu se nalazi još i saransak (češnjak), zaprženi maslac i sol.
Bez papra, ističu, točan razlog ne znaju. Možda ga nekoć na selu jednostavno nije bilo? Svakako, tko voli može dodati i malo aromatičnog, mljevenog šarenog ili crnog papra u lučnicu iliti lučenicu (vjerojatno korijen riječi formulira riječ "luk", to jest bijeli luk – češnjak).
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Drugi preljev za puru je – kaša, kukuruzna kaša koja se u ranijoj fazi kuhanja izuzima iz lonca. Ta se rijetka smjesa obogaćuje komadićima nekog suhog mesa, na "učvrkanom" to jest poprženom maslacu malo se zavrti onoga čega se "ima u kući" – pancete ili pečenice – doda se u kašu još i koja kap octa za kiselost, i tako aromatizirana smjesa postaje drugi preljev za prpastu puru. Teško se odlučiti koji je ukusniji, vjerujte! Osobno, za nižepotpisanu ipak jezičac na vagi donosi sitnu prevagu u korist lučenice. Mogli bismo pojesti nekoliko tanjura!
Sad dolazimo do detalja vezanog uz normative. Porcija pure s lučenicom dostatna je, bez pretjerivanja, za marendu trojici manovala (fizičkih radnika), ili recimo četirima ženama prosječnog apetita. Porcije su uistinu goleme! A ukoliko se pura naručuje à la carte mimo dnevne ponude, dakle u danima osim petka (tada imaju i brojne terenske dostave ovog starinskog jela!), uvjet su četiri porcije. Ukratko, možete dovesti pola firme na team-biulding uz puru, sigurno desetak ljudi može se čestito najesti za, suma sumarum, dvadesetak eura (ta golema porcija stoji pet eura, to jest deset konvertibilnih maraka). To je ta "caka".
– Kukuruz, to jest pura se jela i kao slatko – ako bi u kući bilo meda. Šećera nije bilo, pčelari su znali imati meda za sebe, pa bi tako puru nekad prelili s malo meda, žlicom maslaca. To je bio jedini desert, uz koju smokvu ili kakvo drugo voće, koji su ljudi imali nekoć – podsjeća Radić na još jedan aspekt konzumacije.
U restoranu još nemaju deserte bazirane na puri, ali rade na njihovu osmišljavanju, poručili su.
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Joško Šupić/Cropix
Pura mora bit ‘prpasta‘ (rastresita, nap. a.), onako, sva ko u grudicama. To je važno, jer se onda polijeva umacima po želji, govore meštri od kužine
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16. svibanj 2024 18:28
