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stdClass Object ( [id] => 1120743 [title] => U ruskom okrugu Nenečko stranci mogu vidjeti pravi, a ne rekonstruirani ili ‘digitalizirani‘ život nomada. Gdje je priroda surovija, ljudi sjajnije zrače optimizmom [alias] => u-ruskom-okrugu-nenecko-stranci-mogu-vidjeti-pravi-a-ne-rekonstruirani-ili-digitalizirani-zivot-nomada-gdje-je-priroda-surovija-ljudi-sjajnije-zrace-optimizmom [catid] => 264 [published] => 1 [introtext] => [fulltext] =>

- Bio sam u Narjan-Maru samo pet dana. Ali u pet dana sam uspio vidjeti mnogo toga. Bio sam na probi natjecanja ’Vesele sanjke’, degustirao sam proizvode narjanmarskog mesnog kombinata, pravio sam čips od sobovog mesa, posjetio sam Malozemeljsku tundru, bio sam u gostima kod bračnog para koji ima desetero djece! Napravio sam slanu lijenu pitu u muzeju-restoranu 'Timan', upoznao se sa ženom uzgajivača sobova i pio čaj od luka – to je napisao putnik, kulinar i televizijski voditelj John Warren u predgovoru svoje knjige "Narjan-Mar. To je moja zemlja", piše Russia Beyond .

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Narjan-Mar je centar i jedini grad Nenečkog autonomnog okruga.
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Warren kaže da je ovdje shvatio i vlastitim se očima uvjerio da tamo gdje su uvjeti života teži i gdje je priroda surovija ljudi sjajnije zrače optimizmom, zahvalniji su i više se raduju sitnicama koje u velikim gradovima rijetko tko uopće primjećuje.

Narjan-Mar je centar i jedini grad Nenečkog autonomnog okruga. Ovaj se daleki kraj nalazi iznad polarnog kruga, gotovo na samom Arktičkom oceanu. Tu živi narod Neneci. Oni su nomadi koji uzgajaju sobove. U prijevodu sa neneckog jezika naziv Narjan-Mar znači "Crveni grad". Zamolili smo organizatore književnog natjecanja "Ovo je moja zemlja" da odgovore na najvažnija pitanja vezana za Narjan-Mar.

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Zašto stranac treba doći u vaš grad? 

Jurij Tjuljubajev, recenzent projekta "Narjan Mar. To je moja zemlja" i direktor turističke kompanije "Crveni grad": "Nenečki je okrug jedino netaknuto mjesto u Europi gdje živi nomadski narod koji je zadržao način života svojih predaka i čuva ga kroz stoljeća. Ovdje stranci mogu vidjeti pravi, a ne rekonstruirani ili 'digitalizirani' život nomada i boraviti na području s najnižom gustoćom stanovništva u cijeloj Rusiji."

Andrej Sulejkov, autor i producent projekta "Narjan-Mar. To je moja zemlja": "U Narjan-Maru mnoge kuće imaju svoje nazive. Na primjer, ’Titanic’, ’Bastille’ ili "Crvenkapica’. I svaki naziv je zasnovan na nekoj legendi. Na primjer, imamo ovdje i naš ’Kineski zid’. Mnogi mještani su uvjereni da je ova udvojena zgrada br. 12 i br. 14 u ulici Viučejskog projektirana prema čuvenoj kineskoj praksi feng shui. Postoji legenda da je prilikom izgradnje zgrada primijenjen popularni kineski princip 'drvo i planina', jer stupovi u kineskoj arhitekturi simboliziraju drveće, a kule simboliziraju planine. Udvojena zgrada ima kule, a simboličnu ulogu drveća igraju crveni pravokutni erkeri s prozorima koji su istureni u odnosu na pročelje. 

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To se vidi i iz ptičje perspektive. Pronicljivi mještani pričaju da su više puta uočili kako se jata ptica-selica okreću na nebu iznad ovdašnjeg Kineskog zida. Oni tako korigiraju pravac leta na jug, a kada se vraćaju s juga također se orijentiraju prema ovoj zgradi."

Što obavezno treba vidjeti/uraditi/probati?

Jurij Tjuljubajev: "Obavezno treba posjetiti čum (tradicionalni konusni šator od sobove kože u kojem borave nomadi, uzajivači soboba), bar jedan kilometar se provozati u zaprezi koju vuku sobovi, i treba probati ’ajburdat’, svježe sobovo meso s krvlju. Možda će u početku to izgledati kao divljaštvo, ali ćete bar na trenutak osjetiti povratak korijenima, jer naši preci su upravo tako živjeli i upravo su to jeli."

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Andrej Sulejkov: "'Iznad Polarnog kruga cvijeće ne cvate kao buket, nego kao cijelo brdo. Bijelo brdo su moroška (bobičasto voće koje po izgledu podsjeća na narančastu malinu, a po okusu na kupinu) i borovnica. Ružičasto brdo je ’ivan-čaj’, a ponekad i jarebika, podnevni cvijet, ledum (divlji ružmarin) ili iglica! Zamislite, u svakom cvijetu ima dva-tri puta više nektara nego u običnom cvijeću, i svaki cvijet čeka svoju pčelu’, napisao je sovjetski pisac Mihail Prišvin u osvrtu 'Med iza Polarnog kruga’ (’Zapoljarnij med’).

Prema tome, u Narjan-Maru obavezno treba probati med koji su napravile ovdašnje pčele, a također pojesti medenjak napravljen od tog meda. I jedno i drugo je unikat. Takvog meda i takvih medenjaka nećete naći nigdje drugdje, koliko god da tražite. Pojavio se čak i običaj da se medenjaci kupuju u specijalnoj Kući medenjaka i da se poklanjaju prolaznicima. Ako zamisliš želju i pokloniš ukusan medenjak nepoznatoj osobi, želja će se sigurno ispuniti!"

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Što treba ponijeti kući odavde? 

Jurij Tjuljubajev: "Najbolje je ponijeti tople uspomene na ono što ste vidjeli, na jake ličnosti iz ovog podneblja i lijepe predjele. Što se tiče suvenira, sada u Nenečkom okrugu postoji veliki asortiman premeta od prirodnog materijala ručne izrade, kako tradicionalnih (poput lutke 'ukko'), tako i suvremenih, na primjer magneta za hladnjak napravljenih od sobovih rogova." .

Andrej Sulejkov: "Kvadratni kruh. Lijep je običaj da se s putovanja donosi domaći kruh. Tako mi ne donosimo kući samo hranu, nego i toplinu ruku koje su taj kruh pravile. Ali ni to nije sve. U Narjan-Maru postoji legenda koja glasi ovako: ako si dobar čovjek, u kruhu možeš pronaći dragocjenost. Takav kruh se peče u kvadratnom kalupu. Ne siječe se nožem, nego sobovim žilama", piše Russia Beyond .

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- Bio sam u Narjan-Maru samo pet dana. Ali u pet dana sam uspio vidjeti mnogo toga. Bio sam na probi natjecanja ’Vesele sanjke’, degustirao sam proizvode narjanmarskog mesnog kombinata, pravio sam čips od sobovog mesa, posjetio sam Malozemeljsku tundru, bio sam u gostima kod bračnog para koji ima desetero djece! Napravio sam slanu lijenu pitu u muzeju-restoranu 'Timan', upoznao se sa ženom uzgajivača sobova i pio čaj od luka – to je napisao putnik, kulinar i televizijski voditelj John Warren u predgovoru svoje knjige "Narjan-Mar. To je moja zemlja", piše Russia Beyond .

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Narjan-Mar je centar i jedini grad Nenečkog autonomnog okruga.
Shutterstock
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Warren kaže da je ovdje shvatio i vlastitim se očima uvjerio da tamo gdje su uvjeti života teži i gdje je priroda surovija ljudi sjajnije zrače optimizmom, zahvalniji su i više se raduju sitnicama koje u velikim gradovima rijetko tko uopće primjećuje.

Narjan-Mar je centar i jedini grad Nenečkog autonomnog okruga. Ovaj se daleki kraj nalazi iznad polarnog kruga, gotovo na samom Arktičkom oceanu. Tu živi narod Neneci. Oni su nomadi koji uzgajaju sobove. U prijevodu sa neneckog jezika naziv Narjan-Mar znači "Crveni grad". Zamolili smo organizatore književnog natjecanja "Ovo je moja zemlja" da odgovore na najvažnija pitanja vezana za Narjan-Mar.

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Zašto stranac treba doći u vaš grad? 

Jurij Tjuljubajev, recenzent projekta "Narjan Mar. To je moja zemlja" i direktor turističke kompanije "Crveni grad": "Nenečki je okrug jedino netaknuto mjesto u Europi gdje živi nomadski narod koji je zadržao način života svojih predaka i čuva ga kroz stoljeća. Ovdje stranci mogu vidjeti pravi, a ne rekonstruirani ili 'digitalizirani' život nomada i boraviti na području s najnižom gustoćom stanovništva u cijeloj Rusiji."

Andrej Sulejkov, autor i producent projekta "Narjan-Mar. To je moja zemlja": "U Narjan-Maru mnoge kuće imaju svoje nazive. Na primjer, ’Titanic’, ’Bastille’ ili "Crvenkapica’. I svaki naziv je zasnovan na nekoj legendi. Na primjer, imamo ovdje i naš ’Kineski zid’. Mnogi mještani su uvjereni da je ova udvojena zgrada br. 12 i br. 14 u ulici Viučejskog projektirana prema čuvenoj kineskoj praksi feng shui. Postoji legenda da je prilikom izgradnje zgrada primijenjen popularni kineski princip 'drvo i planina', jer stupovi u kineskoj arhitekturi simboliziraju drveće, a kule simboliziraju planine. Udvojena zgrada ima kule, a simboličnu ulogu drveća igraju crveni pravokutni erkeri s prozorima koji su istureni u odnosu na pročelje. 

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To se vidi i iz ptičje perspektive. Pronicljivi mještani pričaju da su više puta uočili kako se jata ptica-selica okreću na nebu iznad ovdašnjeg Kineskog zida. Oni tako korigiraju pravac leta na jug, a kada se vraćaju s juga također se orijentiraju prema ovoj zgradi."

Što obavezno treba vidjeti/uraditi/probati?

Jurij Tjuljubajev: "Obavezno treba posjetiti čum (tradicionalni konusni šator od sobove kože u kojem borave nomadi, uzajivači soboba), bar jedan kilometar se provozati u zaprezi koju vuku sobovi, i treba probati ’ajburdat’, svježe sobovo meso s krvlju. Možda će u početku to izgledati kao divljaštvo, ali ćete bar na trenutak osjetiti povratak korijenima, jer naši preci su upravo tako živjeli i upravo su to jeli."

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Andrej Sulejkov: "'Iznad Polarnog kruga cvijeće ne cvate kao buket, nego kao cijelo brdo. Bijelo brdo su moroška (bobičasto voće koje po izgledu podsjeća na narančastu malinu, a po okusu na kupinu) i borovnica. Ružičasto brdo je ’ivan-čaj’, a ponekad i jarebika, podnevni cvijet, ledum (divlji ružmarin) ili iglica! Zamislite, u svakom cvijetu ima dva-tri puta više nektara nego u običnom cvijeću, i svaki cvijet čeka svoju pčelu’, napisao je sovjetski pisac Mihail Prišvin u osvrtu 'Med iza Polarnog kruga’ (’Zapoljarnij med’).

Prema tome, u Narjan-Maru obavezno treba probati med koji su napravile ovdašnje pčele, a također pojesti medenjak napravljen od tog meda. I jedno i drugo je unikat. Takvog meda i takvih medenjaka nećete naći nigdje drugdje, koliko god da tražite. Pojavio se čak i običaj da se medenjaci kupuju u specijalnoj Kući medenjaka i da se poklanjaju prolaznicima. Ako zamisliš želju i pokloniš ukusan medenjak nepoznatoj osobi, želja će se sigurno ispuniti!"

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Što treba ponijeti kući odavde? 

Jurij Tjuljubajev: "Najbolje je ponijeti tople uspomene na ono što ste vidjeli, na jake ličnosti iz ovog podneblja i lijepe predjele. Što se tiče suvenira, sada u Nenečkom okrugu postoji veliki asortiman premeta od prirodnog materijala ručne izrade, kako tradicionalnih (poput lutke 'ukko'), tako i suvremenih, na primjer magneta za hladnjak napravljenih od sobovih rogova." .

Andrej Sulejkov: "Kvadratni kruh. Lijep je običaj da se s putovanja donosi domaći kruh. Tako mi ne donosimo kući samo hranu, nego i toplinu ruku koje su taj kruh pravile. Ali ni to nije sve. U Narjan-Maru postoji legenda koja glasi ovako: ako si dobar čovjek, u kruhu možeš pronaći dragocjenost. Takav kruh se peče u kvadratnom kalupu. Ne siječe se nožem, nego sobovim žilama", piše Russia Beyond .

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Ovaj se daleki kraj nalazi iznad polarnog kruga, gotovo na samom Arktičkom oceanu
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Narjan-Mar je centar i jedini grad Nenečkog autonomnog okruga.
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ŽivotJESTE LI ZNALI?

U ruskom okrugu Nenečko stranci mogu vidjeti pravi, a ne rekonstruirani ili ‘digitalizirani‘ život nomada. Gdje je priroda surovija, ljudi sjajnije zrače optimizmom

Piše PSD
17. kolovoza 2021. - 18:55
Ovaj se daleki kraj nalazi iznad polarnog kruga, gotovo na samom Arktičkom oceanu
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Ovaj se daleki kraj nalazi iznad polarnog kruga, gotovo na samom Arktičkom oceanuShutterstock

- Bio sam u Narjan-Maru samo pet dana. Ali u pet dana sam uspio vidjeti mnogo toga. Bio sam na probi natjecanja ’Vesele sanjke’, degustirao sam proizvode narjanmarskog mesnog kombinata, pravio sam čips od sobovog mesa, posjetio sam Malozemeljsku tundru, bio sam u gostima kod bračnog para koji ima desetero djece! Napravio sam slanu lijenu pitu u muzeju-restoranu 'Timan', upoznao se sa ženom uzgajivača sobova i pio čaj od luka – to je napisao putnik, kulinar i televizijski voditelj John Warren u predgovoru svoje knjige "Narjan-Mar. To je moja zemlja", piše Russia Beyond .

Warren kaže da je ovdje shvatio i vlastitim se očima uvjerio da tamo gdje su uvjeti života teži i gdje je priroda surovija ljudi sjajnije zrače optimizmom, zahvalniji su i više se...

#NARJAN-MAR#RUSIJA#OKRUG NENEČKO#NOMADI
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14. svibanj 2024 13:36