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[title] => Tartufi su jednima luksuz, drugima golo preživljavanje: ‘gastronomsko zlato‘ našlo se u velikim problemima, evo zašto ih je sve teže naći. Cijena raste do 2.500 eura po kilu
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Lov na tartufe u šumama sjeverozapadne Hrvatske u opasnosti je zbog klimatskih promjena i krčenja šuma, što izaziva strah da bi gastronomski rudnik zlata u zemlji mogao biti ugrožen.
Slikovite šume istarskog poluotoka sa specifičnom mikroklimom odavno su poznate po proizvodnji nekih od najfinijih bijelih tartufa, čija je cijena ove godine rasla do 2.500 eura po kilogramu.
Porast temperatura i manje oborina uzrokovanih klimatskim promjenama u kombinaciji sa smanjenjem razine vode i gubitkom staništa mogli bi ugroziti prirodni inkubator prijeko potreban za proizvodnju luksuznoga prehrambenog sastojka.
"Teže je pronaći tartufe, nego ih prodati“ žali se francuskoj agenciji AFP Darko Muzica, predsjednik Udruge tarfufara Istre, zagovaračke skupine koja vodi kampanju za zaštitu bijelog tartufa na poluotoku.
Uz klimatske promjene i smanjenje oborina, Muzica kaže da je loše gospodarenje šumama također ugrozilo buduće berbe tartufa, a vladajući daju prednost drvnoj industriji.
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Slično je upozorenje izdano i u studiji iz 2014.
"Diljem svijeta produktivnost prirodnih staništa tartufa se smanjuje, što je često povezano s klimatskim promjenama, ali i s načinima na koji se tlo iskorištava".
Ljubitelji tartufa kažu da je potrebna hitna akcija kako bi se zaštitilo njihovo prirodno stanište. "Cijela regija imala bi koristi od toga“, kaže Ivan Vukadinović, jedan od članova udruge lovaca na tartufe.
Vrhunska kvaliteta
Strah za budućnost tartufa u Istri povezuje se s dugom ljubavi prema toj kulinarskoj deliciji u Hrvatskoj.
Istra je turističko središte Hrvatske, poznate po svojoj netaknutoj obali i otocima, ali je na tržištu tartufa često zasjenjuje susjedna Italija.
A taj je novac itekako potrebno zaraditi, pa se lovci na tartufe u pratnji posebno treniranih pasa, provlače kroz guste nizinske šume blizu Motovuna u nadi da će pronaći bijelo zlato.
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"Traži! Traži!“ govori znanstvenik Željko Zgrablić dok njegova dva psa grebu po tlu.
Nakon što je iskopao gornji sloj tla, Zgrablić pažljivo vadi bijeli tartuf koji teži oko 20 grama i mogao bi mu donijeti i do 130 eura.
To je uobičajena scena tijekom sezone istarskih bijelih tartufa koja traje od rujna do kasnog prosinca i privlači široki spektar tragača.
Istra je i dalje jedno od rijetkih područja izvan poznate talijanske regije Albe koje može proizvesti vrhunske bijele tartufe zahvaljujući svojoj vlažnoj klimi i alkalnom tlu koje jestivim gljivama daje jaku aromu i optimalnu gustoću.
"Teški su, imaju dobar oblik što ih čini proizvodom vrhunske kvalitete“, kaže Zgrablić.
Zemlja tartufa
Prve pisane bilješke o tartufima u Istri potječu iz davne 1920. godine, kad je istarski poluotok pripadao Italiji.
Industrija je znatno narasla u posljednja dva desetljeća i zarađuje milijune dolara godišnje, što je Istru potaknulo da se brendira kao "zemlja tartufa“.
Navala na tartufe započela je 1999. nakon što je otkriven tartuf težak 1.31 kilogram, koji je u to vrijeme bio Guinnessov rekorder.
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"Taj je događaj potaknuo lavinu interesa za tartufima“, kaže njegov otkrivač Giancarlo Zigante, bivši lovac i ugostitelj, koji sada proizvodi na stotine lokalnih proizvoda od tartufa – uključujući ulje, čokoladu i čips koji se izvoze u zemlje diljem svijeta.
U nadi da će zaštititi unosnu trgovinu tartufima, lokalna udruga lovaca na tartufe započela je kampanju za "zaštićenu oznaku izvornosti“ EU-a.
Bude li odobren, zagovornici kažu da će taj certifikat pomoći u boljem gospodarenju šumama u regiji zaustavljanjem njihove "iracionalne devastacije", da će jamčiti autentičnost tartufa i pomoći podizanju svijesti o naporima za njihovo očuvanje.
Većini ljubitelja tartufa očuvanje staništa znači i zaštitu užitka lova na tartufe.
"To je način života, uđe ti pod kožu“, kaže Muzica.
"Pas je sretan kad sam ja sretan. A ja sam sretan kad mi pas pronađe tartuf.“
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Lov na tartufe u šumama sjeverozapadne Hrvatske u opasnosti je zbog klimatskih promjena i krčenja šuma, što izaziva strah da bi gastronomski rudnik zlata u zemlji mogao biti ugrožen.
Slikovite šume istarskog poluotoka sa specifičnom mikroklimom odavno su poznate po proizvodnji nekih od najfinijih bijelih tartufa, čija je cijena ove godine rasla do 2.500 eura po kilogramu.
Porast temperatura i manje oborina uzrokovanih klimatskim promjenama u kombinaciji sa smanjenjem razine vode i gubitkom staništa mogli bi ugroziti prirodni inkubator prijeko potreban za proizvodnju luksuznoga prehrambenog sastojka.
"Teže je pronaći tartufe, nego ih prodati“ žali se francuskoj agenciji AFP Darko Muzica, predsjednik Udruge tarfufara Istre, zagovaračke skupine koja vodi kampanju za zaštitu bijelog tartufa na poluotoku.
Uz klimatske promjene i smanjenje oborina, Muzica kaže da je loše gospodarenje šumama također ugrozilo buduće berbe tartufa, a vladajući daju prednost drvnoj industriji.
---
---
Slično je upozorenje izdano i u studiji iz 2014.
"Diljem svijeta produktivnost prirodnih staništa tartufa se smanjuje, što je često povezano s klimatskim promjenama, ali i s načinima na koji se tlo iskorištava".
Ljubitelji tartufa kažu da je potrebna hitna akcija kako bi se zaštitilo njihovo prirodno stanište. "Cijela regija imala bi koristi od toga“, kaže Ivan Vukadinović, jedan od članova udruge lovaca na tartufe.
Vrhunska kvaliteta
Strah za budućnost tartufa u Istri povezuje se s dugom ljubavi prema toj kulinarskoj deliciji u Hrvatskoj.
Istra je turističko središte Hrvatske, poznate po svojoj netaknutoj obali i otocima, ali je na tržištu tartufa često zasjenjuje susjedna Italija.
A taj je novac itekako potrebno zaraditi, pa se lovci na tartufe u pratnji posebno treniranih pasa, provlače kroz guste nizinske šume blizu Motovuna u nadi da će pronaći bijelo zlato.
---
---
"Traži! Traži!“ govori znanstvenik Željko Zgrablić dok njegova dva psa grebu po tlu.
Nakon što je iskopao gornji sloj tla, Zgrablić pažljivo vadi bijeli tartuf koji teži oko 20 grama i mogao bi mu donijeti i do 130 eura.
To je uobičajena scena tijekom sezone istarskih bijelih tartufa koja traje od rujna do kasnog prosinca i privlači široki spektar tragača.
Istra je i dalje jedno od rijetkih područja izvan poznate talijanske regije Albe koje može proizvesti vrhunske bijele tartufe zahvaljujući svojoj vlažnoj klimi i alkalnom tlu koje jestivim gljivama daje jaku aromu i optimalnu gustoću.
"Teški su, imaju dobar oblik što ih čini proizvodom vrhunske kvalitete“, kaže Zgrablić.
Zemlja tartufa
Prve pisane bilješke o tartufima u Istri potječu iz davne 1920. godine, kad je istarski poluotok pripadao Italiji.
Industrija je znatno narasla u posljednja dva desetljeća i zarađuje milijune dolara godišnje, što je Istru potaknulo da se brendira kao "zemlja tartufa“.
Navala na tartufe započela je 1999. nakon što je otkriven tartuf težak 1.31 kilogram, koji je u to vrijeme bio Guinnessov rekorder.
---
---
"Taj je događaj potaknuo lavinu interesa za tartufima“, kaže njegov otkrivač Giancarlo Zigante, bivši lovac i ugostitelj, koji sada proizvodi na stotine lokalnih proizvoda od tartufa – uključujući ulje, čokoladu i čips koji se izvoze u zemlje diljem svijeta.
U nadi da će zaštititi unosnu trgovinu tartufima, lokalna udruga lovaca na tartufe započela je kampanju za "zaštićenu oznaku izvornosti“ EU-a.
Bude li odobren, zagovornici kažu da će taj certifikat pomoći u boljem gospodarenju šumama u regiji zaustavljanjem njihove "iracionalne devastacije", da će jamčiti autentičnost tartufa i pomoći podizanju svijesti o naporima za njihovo očuvanje.
Većini ljubitelja tartufa očuvanje staništa znači i zaštitu užitka lova na tartufe.
"To je način života, uđe ti pod kožu“, kaže Muzica.
"Pas je sretan kad sam ja sretan. A ja sam sretan kad mi pas pronađe tartuf.“
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Damir Sencar/AFP
Darko Muzica i njegov labrador 'u akciji': Pas je sretan kad sam ja sretan. A ja sam sretan kad mi pronađe tartuf!
Damir Sencar/AFP
'Cijela regija imala bi koristi od zaštite prirodnog staništa tartufa', kaže Ivan Vukadinović
Paun Paunović/Cropix
Giancarlo Zigante sa tartufom s kojim je ušao u Guinnessovu knjigu rekorda kao najveći pronađeni
Srećko Niketić/Cropix
Dobar tartufar i sam vrijedi par tisuća eura, uopšće ne mora biti čistokrvne pasmine
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[published] => 1
[ordering] => 12
[alias] => open_link_in_new_window
)
[12] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 71
[name] => Horizontal crop of the main photo
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 13
[alias] => horizontal_crop_of_the_main_photo
)
[13] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 73
[name] => No-index
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 15
[alias] => no_index
)
[14] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 74
[name] => No-cache
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 16
[alias] => no_cache
)
[15] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 77
[name] => Don't show on the front page
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 17
[alias] => dont_show_on_the_front_page
)
[16] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 78
[name] => Related on bottom
[value] => ON
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 18
[alias] => related_on_bottom
)
[17] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 79
[name] => Live button
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 19
[alias] => live_button
)
[26] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 87
[name] => Instant articles
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 28
[alias] => instant_articles
)
[27] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 91
[name] => S preporučuje
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 29
[alias] => s_preporucuje
)
[28] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 92
[name] => S voli
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 30
[alias] => s_voli
)
[29] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 93
[name] => Layout with three photos
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 31
[alias] => layout_with_three_photos
)
[30] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 94
[name] => Gallery in the article
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 32
[alias] => gallery_in_the_article
)
[31] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 95
[name] => Required views
[value] => 0
[type] => textfield
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 33
[alias] => required_views
)
[32] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 96
[name] => FullHD image
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 34
[alias] => fullhd_image
)
[33] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 98
[name] => Paid Article
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 36
[alias] => paid_article
)
)
15. svibanj 2024 16:21
