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[title] => Kontroverzna ‘luda jabuka‘: priča o patlidžanu puna je pikanterija, ali recepti za njegovu pripremu su - fantastični
[alias] => kontroverzna-luda-jabuka-prica-o-patlidzanu-puna-je-pikanterija-ali-recepti-za-njegovu-pripremu-su-fantasticni
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Napokon smo dočekali sezonu patlidžana. Napokon, jer kad doma imate balancanu-dvije, nema vam straha od gladi. S malo kojim se lako dostupnim plodom može napraviti tako puno dobrih stvari kao s patlidžanom, samo se treba odlučiti. Bez pretjerivanja, opcija je toliko da će vam se začas zavrtjeti u glavi, a mogao bi vam proraditi apetit (pa se nadamo da vam je barem koja balancanica pri ruci).
Evo, odaberite sami: hoćete ih peći na grilu, pohati ili pržiti, hoćete li nadjenuti izdubljeni plod ili samo ploškice - pa ih fino zarolati i kuhati u umaku od rajčice - hoćete ih zapeći u slanoj piti ili u šugu od poma s mozzarellom, hoćete ih nasjeckati na kockice i prodinstati za prilog ili ćete ih ispeći u komadu pa usitniti u namaz...
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---
Zapravo je pravo čudo što danas imamo tako puno dobrih recepata s patlidžanima, jer malo je koji plod kroz povijest imao tako lošu reputaciju. Drevni perzijski filozofi pripisivali su im cijeli niz tegoba i bolesti, od prištića do epilepsije, dok su stari Grci smatrali da pretjerano uživanje u balancanama može oštetiti um, a te su optužbe, reklo bi se, preživjele sve do renesanse i prešle do Italije, gdje se u to doba patlidžan nazivao mala insana ili "luda jabuka". Tračevi su kružili cijelim Mediteranom i opstali su stoljećima, pa je zabilježeno da se u Egiptu 19-og stoljeća vjerovalo kako su slučajevi ludila češći i nasilniji kad su balancane u stađunu.
Međutim, na drugoj strani svijeta, u Aziji, prema tim tamnoljubičastim (ali također i svijetloljubičastim, gotovo crnim, zelenim i bijelim) plodovima vladalo je potpuno suprotno raspoloženje, a u Japanu čak postoji poslovica koja glasi: "Najsretniji znak za Novu godinu je planina Fuji, zatim sokol i na kraju patlidžan.". Moguće je da je razlog ovako oprečnih stavova u tome što su balancane u Aziji domaća, a u Europi uvezena biljka - prema većini izvora porijeklo vuku iz Indije, prema nekima iz Myanmara, gdje i danas rastu divlji primjerci ove biljke.
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---
Nedavno je utvrđeno da takvi, divlji, rastu i na sjeveroistoku Afrike, a ta je spoznaja potaknula znanstvenike na zaključak da im je pradomovina ipak na tom kontinentu, odakle su se, tko zna kako, prije nekih dva milijuna godina, proširili u južnu i zapadnu Afriku, ali i prema istoku u tropsku Aziju gdje je nastala vrsta koju znanstvenici nazivaju Solanum insanum (da, dobro ste pročitali, insanum), a iz te divlje vrste kasnije je udomaćen patlidžan.
Zanimljivo je da neslaganje postoji i oko načina na koji su balancane pronašle put do Europe - po jednima su ušli preko Grčke, po drugima su ih donijeli Turci, po trećima Arapi i to preko Španjolske, čiji su ogroman dio držali sve do 15. stoljeća. Držali su, dakako, i dio Italije, što još više komplicira stvar, ali donekle objašnjava spomenuti animozitet i sumnjičavost spram tog mesnatog ploda...
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---
Jeste li primijetili da balancane uporno nazivamo plodom? Razlog je u tome što one zapravo uopće nisu povrće nego voće, barem u botaničkom smislu, a još je puno činjenica o balancanama koje bi se lako mogle naći u rubrici "vjerovali ili ne". Primjerice, jeste li znali da patlidžan sadrži nikotin? Po udjelu te kemikalije je u samom vrhu među biljnim vrstama, ali morali biste pojesti oko devet kilograma patlidžana da unesete količinu nikotina sadržanu u jednoj cigareti.
Kad smo već kod sadržaja, sadrže oni i puno korisnih sastojaka: prepuni su vitamina i minerala, poput vitamina C, vitamina K i kalija, koji su blagotvorni za cijeli organizam, a na glasu su i kao sastojci važni za zdravlje kože i kose. Interesantno je da su ih u kozmetičke svrhe koristili još u drevnoj Kini, no na način koji biste teško očekivali: sukladno tadašnjim beauty trendovima, žene su njima - bojale zube. U sivo. Potom bi ih još dobro izglancale, da se dobro sjaje. Zaista dražesno.
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---
Možda boje da se vratimo našoj temi, a to je korištenje balancana u kuhinji. Ovdje ćemo riječ prepustiti stručnjaku, mladom i perspektivnom chefu Adrianu Markoviću, šefu kuhinje trogirskog restorana "Brown Beach House", koji nam je nedavno dao par odličnih recepata za pripremu batata,
možete se podsjetiti ovdje. Ovoga puta chef Adrian nam otkriva kako napraviti paštetu i rižot od balancana, a nije zaboravio ni mnogima omiljen način njihove pripreme - a la parisienne.
---
---
Pašteta od balancana
Sastojci za 4 osobe:
500g balancana
50 g krem sira
20 g senfa
2 žlice maslinovog ulja
1 režanj češnjaka
peršin
sol, papar
Priprema:
Balancane izrežite na kolute posolite pa ih ostavite da odstoje 20-25 minuta. Isperite ih od soli i posušite pa ih ispecite na maslinovom ulju u pećnici oko 20 minuta ili na grill tavi. Pustite ih da se ohlade.
Ohlađene balancane s preostalim sastojcima stavite u blender i usitnite u paštetu. Prije posluživanja dobro je ohladite.
---
---
Rižoto od balancane
Sastojci za 4 osobe:
600 g balancana
1 luk
2-3 režnja češnjaka
2-3 žlice maslinovog ulja
1 žlica maslaca
200 ml bijelog vina
350-400 g riže
1 l temeljca/vode
petrusimul
parmezan
sol, papar
Priprema:
Balancane narežite ih na kockice. Posolite ih i ostavite da stoje 15-20 min.
Luk nasjeckajte na sitno pa ga na maslinovom ulju dinstajte do zlatno žute boje, a zatim ubacite i balancane te ih pustite da se dinstaju dok ne omekšaju. Dodajte nasjeckani česnjak i pustite ga da zamiriše, ulijte vino pa pustite da ispari alkohol.
Nakon toga ubacite rižu pa je pirjajte dok ne postane staklasta. Pomalo dolijevajte temeljac ili vodu, miješajući dok se ne upije prije nego dodate još. Začinite solju i paprom pa kuhajte dok riža ne bude gotova. Tada dodajte maslac, parmezan i petrusimul pa pustite da odstoji 5-6 minuta.
---
---
Pohane balancane na pariški način
Sastojci:
400 g balancana
100 g brašna
3 jaja
sol
ulje za prženje
Priprema:
Patlidžan narežite na ploške debljine otprilike 2 centimetar i posolite. Ostavite ih da odstoje oko 15-20 minuta, zatim ih dobro posušite papirnatim ubrusom.
Zagrijte tavu s uljem a kriške balancane stavite u brašno pa u jaje te pržite dok se ne stvori korica zlaćane boje.
Vadite ih na kuhinjski papir kako bi se ocijedila od viška ulja pa ih poslužite uz neki jednostavan umak, na primjer uz kiselo vrhnje kojem ste dodali malo soli.
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Napokon smo dočekali sezonu patlidžana. Napokon, jer kad doma imate balancanu-dvije, nema vam straha od gladi. S malo kojim se lako dostupnim plodom može napraviti tako puno dobrih stvari kao s patlidžanom, samo se treba odlučiti. Bez pretjerivanja, opcija je toliko da će vam se začas zavrtjeti u glavi, a mogao bi vam proraditi apetit (pa se nadamo da vam je barem koja balancanica pri ruci).
Evo, odaberite sami: hoćete ih peći na grilu, pohati ili pržiti, hoćete li nadjenuti izdubljeni plod ili samo ploškice - pa ih fino zarolati i kuhati u umaku od rajčice - hoćete ih zapeći u slanoj piti ili u šugu od poma s mozzarellom, hoćete ih nasjeckati na kockice i prodinstati za prilog ili ćete ih ispeći u komadu pa usitniti u namaz...
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Zapravo je pravo čudo što danas imamo tako puno dobrih recepata s patlidžanima, jer malo je koji plod kroz povijest imao tako lošu reputaciju. Drevni perzijski filozofi pripisivali su im cijeli niz tegoba i bolesti, od prištića do epilepsije, dok su stari Grci smatrali da pretjerano uživanje u balancanama može oštetiti um, a te su optužbe, reklo bi se, preživjele sve do renesanse i prešle do Italije, gdje se u to doba patlidžan nazivao mala insana ili "luda jabuka". Tračevi su kružili cijelim Mediteranom i opstali su stoljećima, pa je zabilježeno da se u Egiptu 19-og stoljeća vjerovalo kako su slučajevi ludila češći i nasilniji kad su balancane u stađunu.
Međutim, na drugoj strani svijeta, u Aziji, prema tim tamnoljubičastim (ali također i svijetloljubičastim, gotovo crnim, zelenim i bijelim) plodovima vladalo je potpuno suprotno raspoloženje, a u Japanu čak postoji poslovica koja glasi: "Najsretniji znak za Novu godinu je planina Fuji, zatim sokol i na kraju patlidžan.". Moguće je da je razlog ovako oprečnih stavova u tome što su balancane u Aziji domaća, a u Europi uvezena biljka - prema većini izvora porijeklo vuku iz Indije, prema nekima iz Myanmara, gdje i danas rastu divlji primjerci ove biljke.
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Nedavno je utvrđeno da takvi, divlji, rastu i na sjeveroistoku Afrike, a ta je spoznaja potaknula znanstvenike na zaključak da im je pradomovina ipak na tom kontinentu, odakle su se, tko zna kako, prije nekih dva milijuna godina, proširili u južnu i zapadnu Afriku, ali i prema istoku u tropsku Aziju gdje je nastala vrsta koju znanstvenici nazivaju Solanum insanum (da, dobro ste pročitali, insanum), a iz te divlje vrste kasnije je udomaćen patlidžan.
Zanimljivo je da neslaganje postoji i oko načina na koji su balancane pronašle put do Europe - po jednima su ušli preko Grčke, po drugima su ih donijeli Turci, po trećima Arapi i to preko Španjolske, čiji su ogroman dio držali sve do 15. stoljeća. Držali su, dakako, i dio Italije, što još više komplicira stvar, ali donekle objašnjava spomenuti animozitet i sumnjičavost spram tog mesnatog ploda...
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Jeste li primijetili da balancane uporno nazivamo plodom? Razlog je u tome što one zapravo uopće nisu povrće nego voće, barem u botaničkom smislu, a još je puno činjenica o balancanama koje bi se lako mogle naći u rubrici "vjerovali ili ne". Primjerice, jeste li znali da patlidžan sadrži nikotin? Po udjelu te kemikalije je u samom vrhu među biljnim vrstama, ali morali biste pojesti oko devet kilograma patlidžana da unesete količinu nikotina sadržanu u jednoj cigareti.
Kad smo već kod sadržaja, sadrže oni i puno korisnih sastojaka: prepuni su vitamina i minerala, poput vitamina C, vitamina K i kalija, koji su blagotvorni za cijeli organizam, a na glasu su i kao sastojci važni za zdravlje kože i kose. Interesantno je da su ih u kozmetičke svrhe koristili još u drevnoj Kini, no na način koji biste teško očekivali: sukladno tadašnjim beauty trendovima, žene su njima - bojale zube. U sivo. Potom bi ih još dobro izglancale, da se dobro sjaje. Zaista dražesno.
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Možda boje da se vratimo našoj temi, a to je korištenje balancana u kuhinji. Ovdje ćemo riječ prepustiti stručnjaku, mladom i perspektivnom chefu Adrianu Markoviću, šefu kuhinje trogirskog restorana "Brown Beach House", koji nam je nedavno dao par odličnih recepata za pripremu batata,
možete se podsjetiti ovdje. Ovoga puta chef Adrian nam otkriva kako napraviti paštetu i rižot od balancana, a nije zaboravio ni mnogima omiljen način njihove pripreme - a la parisienne.
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Pašteta od balancana
Sastojci za 4 osobe:
500g balancana
50 g krem sira
20 g senfa
2 žlice maslinovog ulja
1 režanj češnjaka
peršin
sol, papar
Priprema:
Balancane izrežite na kolute posolite pa ih ostavite da odstoje 20-25 minuta. Isperite ih od soli i posušite pa ih ispecite na maslinovom ulju u pećnici oko 20 minuta ili na grill tavi. Pustite ih da se ohlade.
Ohlađene balancane s preostalim sastojcima stavite u blender i usitnite u paštetu. Prije posluživanja dobro je ohladite.
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Rižoto od balancane
Sastojci za 4 osobe:
600 g balancana
1 luk
2-3 režnja češnjaka
2-3 žlice maslinovog ulja
1 žlica maslaca
200 ml bijelog vina
350-400 g riže
1 l temeljca/vode
petrusimul
parmezan
sol, papar
Priprema:
Balancane narežite ih na kockice. Posolite ih i ostavite da stoje 15-20 min.
Luk nasjeckajte na sitno pa ga na maslinovom ulju dinstajte do zlatno žute boje, a zatim ubacite i balancane te ih pustite da se dinstaju dok ne omekšaju. Dodajte nasjeckani česnjak i pustite ga da zamiriše, ulijte vino pa pustite da ispari alkohol.
Nakon toga ubacite rižu pa je pirjajte dok ne postane staklasta. Pomalo dolijevajte temeljac ili vodu, miješajući dok se ne upije prije nego dodate još. Začinite solju i paprom pa kuhajte dok riža ne bude gotova. Tada dodajte maslac, parmezan i petrusimul pa pustite da odstoji 5-6 minuta.
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Pohane balancane na pariški način
Sastojci:
400 g balancana
100 g brašna
3 jaja
sol
ulje za prženje
Priprema:
Patlidžan narežite na ploške debljine otprilike 2 centimetar i posolite. Ostavite ih da odstoje oko 15-20 minuta, zatim ih dobro posušite papirnatim ubrusom.
Zagrijte tavu s uljem a kriške balancane stavite u brašno pa u jaje te pržite dok se ne stvori korica zlaćane boje.
Vadite ih na kuhinjski papir kako bi se ocijedila od viška ulja pa ih poslužite uz neki jednostavan umak, na primjer uz kiselo vrhnje kojem ste dodali malo soli.
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16. svibanj 2024 19:36
