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[title] => U Bariju kao da smo u Splitu, ali u onom otprije 30-ak godina! Turizam je ‘usput‘, a sve puno života! Kava 1 €, pivo 2
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Ako vam je dosadilo biti stranac u vlastitom gradu, postoji rješenje. Ako vas u Splitu tjeraju iz dvora u kojemu ste do jučer pili kavu kako bi ga pretvorili u fensi-restoran za one s više novca, utješit ćemo vas: ima mjesta na kojima ste još uvijek dobrodošli na kavu.
Ako vam je u Dioklecijanovom gradu sve preskupo, ako više ne prepoznajete Varoš, Radunicu i Get iz svoje mladosti, nudimo vremeplov.
Splićani, dođite u Bari! To je Split kakav je nekad bio.
Jadrolinija je uvela novu trajektnu vezu, izravno Split-Bari, brod vas dovozi do luke, centar je samo korak dalje. I oduševit će vas!
Dakle, Bari. Glavni grad Puglije, sada dodirna točka Splita za nastavak dalje prema nikad bližem, krajnjem jugu talijanske čizme, ili pak - ostanak u Bariju. Za našeg posjeta, potrefili smo i trodnevnu feštu zaštitnika grada svetog Nikole, vidjeli puno hodočasnika i najveći lungomare-sajam ikad! No, klasično sajmište s ponudom od hot-doga (i pečenih hobotnica, na licu mjesta, kao da su burgeri) preko sunčanih naočala i inih "đinđa" sigurno nije forte turizma.
Kvaka je u tome da je u Bariju turizam "usput", to je grad koji se još nije turistički "prokurvao", nije ama baš sve u službi "onoga koji plaća" - a i ne plaća se puno. Bari vam je, drage čitateljice i čitatelji, Split otprije tridesetak godina, u onom najboljem smislu!
Bančići i katrige isprid vrata
To je Get koji još vrvi od života (ne samo od hordi turista), u Bariju "centro" ljudi žive, ulica im je dnevni boravak, svima su bančići i katrige ispred vrata, tu je cijelo susjedstvo "una grande famiglia". Penzioneri sjede ispred kuće, živo ćakulaju, dozivaju se, razmjenjuju informacije i cigarete, piju kavu ili bevandu. Djeca se igraju na ulici (skoro pa smo ugledali i karete kao u Kaleti Tome Bebića, to je taj film, uokviren điranima) umjesto da bulje u ekrane, vjerojatno ih ima i na sportskim igralištima ali to nismo stigli vidjeti - bili smo turisti na jedan dan. No, prvi dojam je najvažniji, zar ne?
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Street-food ponuda će vas razgaliti. Bari nema puno elitnih restorana, ali u brojnima od njih uz štekat naslonjen na pune tiramole (one samostojeće) vidjet ćete plinski špaher i za njim matronu, signoru koja nešto friga ili kuha. Totalni suživot lokalnih ljudi i turizma koji se odvija logično, ali nenametljivo.
U Splitu bi ušminkali štekat, ogradili ga ogradom od ostatka svijeta, brendirali, potjerali lokalne ljude (nas), i - naplatili. Pa se hvalili recenzijama na Trip Advisoru, jer zvjezdice su sve, a preko zime otišli na godišnji, potražili ljeto na drugom kontinentu i svoj fensi-štekat ostavili da gluvari i hibernira do idućeg kalendarskog ljeta u Hrvatskoj. Do nove žetve, besplodne za nas, obične građane. One kojih u centru više nema.
Bari još ima dušu, ima svoje ljude, svoju dicu! Cijene su nevjerojatne: popili smo odličan produženi macchiato u pašticeriji u centru Barija za jedan (1) euro, pojeli čašu sladoleda al pistacchio dva eura! Toliko u Splitu košta jedna kugla, ako vam se posreći.
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Izvrsno lokalno jelo s rižom i krumpirom, pedoćama i povrćem, jednu solidnu pjatancu platili smo ravno deset eura. Crno vino kuće je "krv sveca" - madonna, kako je dobro! - i stoji četiri eura za bocun od pola litre. Gazda kaže da je to mlado vino sorte primitivo, bolje domaće vino nismo još probali. Pivo Peroni stoji u oštariji dva eura, ni tu cijenu nećete lako u Splitu naći u restoranima.
Ajmo dalje s cijenama. Prije desetak dana kupovali smo suvenirčiće u Sloveniji, bez magnetića ne možeš nazad doma. U Bledu i Ljubljani (kao i u Grazu) magnetića za frižider nema ispod četiri eura. U Bariju stoje dva eura, a za pet eura možeš dobiti i tri. Sunčane naočale: pet eura; to je jeftinije i od DM-a. Travešu (kuharsku kecelju) sam od simpatične ljubljanske "tekstilke" na njihovoj tržnici platila deset eura (tražila je najprije 16), a u Bariju - dva eura za traveršu. Dva eura, due euro!
Usput, slične lijepe kecelje hrvatskih proizvođača stoje od deset do 20 eura, skuplje su "one s džepom", moja iz Barija je plastificirana, ima dva džepa i printani recept za limoncello. Hajte, mili moji.
Turistu na cjelodnevnom boravku nije nebitna stavka ni - zahod. U Bariju je javni toalet, odlično održavan, čist - besplatan. Zero eura! U prčvarnici u Metkoviću sam korištenje nužnika platila 50 centi, u Bariju ništa. Grazie, Bari!
Bari je, vidjet ćete čim ugazite u četvrt Barrivecchia (stari Bari u prijevodu, spojeno) grad tiramola. Odjeća se suši posvuda, sve te bičve, mudante, ređipeti i šugamani govore da u starom dijelu grada obitavaju obični ljudi, tu pulsira život, la vita quotidiana. Ne suše se lancuni s logom hotela, nego sto puta oprana, malo zakrpljena bjankerija pokojne matere, babe. To je grad obavijen mirisom "praška za robu", još i više mirisom onog starinskog, kafenog sapuna za pranje odjeće.
---
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Penzioneri u špaliru
Mali fenomen su i brojne butige s natpisom "Detersivi domestici" ili "Deterdženti za domaćinstvo", ima ih više nego marketa sa hranom iliti robom široke potrošnje.
Svugdi vonja sapun, i frigadura, malo zagoren maslac, toć, miriše kruh iz tostera. Ništa škampi i jastozi, oborita riba; tu miriše frigana girica, podgrijana pečena kokoš. Bari, volim te!
Ljudi su srdačni kao da ste prvi turist kojega su upoznali, posebice ako progovorite njihov jezik. Preporučit će vam najbolje orecchiette (lokalna manistra, specijalitet), objasniti da su tiramoli prekriveni ceradom zato jer bi "mogla kiša", ali ima i puno "tića" (koji rade, zna se što, pa bi mogli unerediti opranu robu). Reći će vam i da se mogu otkrhnuti komadići starih fasada, pa bi bilo dobro pripaziti. Ćakulat će s vama o uspomenama kad su plovili duž hrvatske obale zajedničkog nam mora Jadranskog, puno je tu starih "marinaija" (mornara). No, oni koji nisu plovili, jedva da su čuli za Split. Nemaju o njemu blagog pojma?! La piu palida idea, niente. Čini se da im opća kultura nije bogznakakva, barem ona geografska; jedva su se "ošervali" i na Hrvatsku, atroke Split. Nevjerojatno; a tako smo blizu!
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Penzioneri sjede u špaliru i na zidiću pored normanske fortice Castello Svevo di Bari. Među njima ima umirovljenih pomoraca, običnih radnika (građevina), ali i jedan arhitekt, signor Enzo Posca. Vlasnik je velike jahte i poznaje jadransku obalu s hrvatske "bande" bolje od mnogih Hrvata, posebice Istru, ali i srednju Dalmaciju; uskoro će put Rovinja, forza Enzo!
Nikad bliži
Antonio Floro nam ponosno veli da mu sin Matteo ima "suo servizio" (vodoinstalater je), ali i apartman za iznajmljivanje, dok nam Roberto Lanave, marangun, ponosno pokazuje konjića od punog drveta kojeg je sam izradio. Cavallino je perjanica njegove male kreativne butige (atelier artistico), i stoji 800 eura. Signor (šjor) Roberto poznaje Hrvatsku bolje od mnogih drugih Baresana jer je bio u Malom Lošinju, na Plitvicama...
- Anche a Sarajevo, Mostar... E tutto Croazia? - pita za susjedne nam gradove.
Rado bismo ostali u Bariju još koji dan, udomaćili se, možda i okupali na nekoj od plaža; to je teren kojega ćemo tek istražiti. Bari je ne samo srdačan i, rekli bismo, turistički neiskvaren, nego i - nikad bliži. Vraćamo ti se, Bari, amore mio!
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author=
title=U Bariju kao da smo u Splitu, ali u onom otprije 30-ak godine! Turizam je 'usput', a sve puno života! Kava 1 €, pivo 2
[metakey] => bari, italija, split kakav je nekad bio, turisti, svevo di bari, hrana
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\u017divot ovdje klizi u sporijem, ugodnijem ritmu<\/p>","
Grad u kojem nije podre\u0111eno sve \u2018onome koji pla\u0107a<\/p>","
Nema hordi turista, ali zato doma\u0107i \u017eive na ulici<\/p>","
Smi\u0161nih du\u0107ana na sve strane<\/p>","","
Neobi\u010dna butiga<\/p>","","
Preslatko...<\/p>","
Peta brzina ne dolazi u obzir<\/p>","
Ovo kao da je njihova Mateju\u0161ka<\/p>","","","
Pro\u0161etali smo i ispred kazali\u0161te Margherita<\/p>","","
Ekipa sa zidi\u0107a: Enzo Posca, Giuseppe Palesano, Bartolomeo Petarosa, Nicola Amoruso sa prijateljom ispred Normanske tvr\u0111ave<\/p>","
Malo sist, malo pro\u0161etat...<\/p>","","","","
Restorani nisu fensi, a hrana je super<\/p>","
Balkoni su natkriveni plasti\u010dnim tendama, treba se za\u0161titi od ki\u0161e, ali i od golubova
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Tiramoli na sve strane<\/p>","
Pije se kava, su\u0161i se roba, dica se dru\u017ee...<\/p>","
Roba se su\u0161i - na ulici. Nije problem<\/p>","","","
Street-food ponuda \u0107e vas razgaliti<\/p>","","
Ne su\u0161e se lancuni s logom hotela, nego sto puta oprana, malo zakrpljena bjankerija pokojne matere, babe..<\/p>","
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Ako vam je dosadilo biti stranac u vlastitom gradu, postoji rješenje. Ako vas u Splitu tjeraju iz dvora u kojemu ste do jučer pili kavu kako bi ga pretvorili u fensi-restoran za one s više novca, utješit ćemo vas: ima mjesta na kojima ste još uvijek dobrodošli na kavu.
Ako vam je u Dioklecijanovom gradu sve preskupo, ako više ne prepoznajete Varoš, Radunicu i Get iz svoje mladosti, nudimo vremeplov.
Splićani, dođite u Bari! To je Split kakav je nekad bio.
Jadrolinija je uvela novu trajektnu vezu, izravno Split-Bari, brod vas dovozi do luke, centar je samo korak dalje. I oduševit će vas!
Dakle, Bari. Glavni grad Puglije, sada dodirna točka Splita za nastavak dalje prema nikad bližem, krajnjem jugu talijanske čizme, ili pak - ostanak u Bariju. Za našeg posjeta, potrefili smo i trodnevnu feštu zaštitnika grada svetog Nikole, vidjeli puno hodočasnika i najveći lungomare-sajam ikad! No, klasično sajmište s ponudom od hot-doga (i pečenih hobotnica, na licu mjesta, kao da su burgeri) preko sunčanih naočala i inih "đinđa" sigurno nije forte turizma.
Kvaka je u tome da je u Bariju turizam "usput", to je grad koji se još nije turistički "prokurvao", nije ama baš sve u službi "onoga koji plaća" - a i ne plaća se puno. Bari vam je, drage čitateljice i čitatelji, Split otprije tridesetak godina, u onom najboljem smislu!
Bančići i katrige isprid vrata
To je Get koji još vrvi od života (ne samo od hordi turista), u Bariju "centro" ljudi žive, ulica im je dnevni boravak, svima su bančići i katrige ispred vrata, tu je cijelo susjedstvo "una grande famiglia". Penzioneri sjede ispred kuće, živo ćakulaju, dozivaju se, razmjenjuju informacije i cigarete, piju kavu ili bevandu. Djeca se igraju na ulici (skoro pa smo ugledali i karete kao u Kaleti Tome Bebića, to je taj film, uokviren điranima) umjesto da bulje u ekrane, vjerojatno ih ima i na sportskim igralištima ali to nismo stigli vidjeti - bili smo turisti na jedan dan. No, prvi dojam je najvažniji, zar ne?
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Street-food ponuda će vas razgaliti. Bari nema puno elitnih restorana, ali u brojnima od njih uz štekat naslonjen na pune tiramole (one samostojeće) vidjet ćete plinski špaher i za njim matronu, signoru koja nešto friga ili kuha. Totalni suživot lokalnih ljudi i turizma koji se odvija logično, ali nenametljivo.
U Splitu bi ušminkali štekat, ogradili ga ogradom od ostatka svijeta, brendirali, potjerali lokalne ljude (nas), i - naplatili. Pa se hvalili recenzijama na Trip Advisoru, jer zvjezdice su sve, a preko zime otišli na godišnji, potražili ljeto na drugom kontinentu i svoj fensi-štekat ostavili da gluvari i hibernira do idućeg kalendarskog ljeta u Hrvatskoj. Do nove žetve, besplodne za nas, obične građane. One kojih u centru više nema.
Bari još ima dušu, ima svoje ljude, svoju dicu! Cijene su nevjerojatne: popili smo odličan produženi macchiato u pašticeriji u centru Barija za jedan (1) euro, pojeli čašu sladoleda al pistacchio dva eura! Toliko u Splitu košta jedna kugla, ako vam se posreći.
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Izvrsno lokalno jelo s rižom i krumpirom, pedoćama i povrćem, jednu solidnu pjatancu platili smo ravno deset eura. Crno vino kuće je "krv sveca" - madonna, kako je dobro! - i stoji četiri eura za bocun od pola litre. Gazda kaže da je to mlado vino sorte primitivo, bolje domaće vino nismo još probali. Pivo Peroni stoji u oštariji dva eura, ni tu cijenu nećete lako u Splitu naći u restoranima.
Ajmo dalje s cijenama. Prije desetak dana kupovali smo suvenirčiće u Sloveniji, bez magnetića ne možeš nazad doma. U Bledu i Ljubljani (kao i u Grazu) magnetića za frižider nema ispod četiri eura. U Bariju stoje dva eura, a za pet eura možeš dobiti i tri. Sunčane naočale: pet eura; to je jeftinije i od DM-a. Travešu (kuharsku kecelju) sam od simpatične ljubljanske "tekstilke" na njihovoj tržnici platila deset eura (tražila je najprije 16), a u Bariju - dva eura za traveršu. Dva eura, due euro!
Usput, slične lijepe kecelje hrvatskih proizvođača stoje od deset do 20 eura, skuplje su "one s džepom", moja iz Barija je plastificirana, ima dva džepa i printani recept za limoncello. Hajte, mili moji.
Turistu na cjelodnevnom boravku nije nebitna stavka ni - zahod. U Bariju je javni toalet, odlično održavan, čist - besplatan. Zero eura! U prčvarnici u Metkoviću sam korištenje nužnika platila 50 centi, u Bariju ništa. Grazie, Bari!
Bari je, vidjet ćete čim ugazite u četvrt Barrivecchia (stari Bari u prijevodu, spojeno) grad tiramola. Odjeća se suši posvuda, sve te bičve, mudante, ređipeti i šugamani govore da u starom dijelu grada obitavaju obični ljudi, tu pulsira život, la vita quotidiana. Ne suše se lancuni s logom hotela, nego sto puta oprana, malo zakrpljena bjankerija pokojne matere, babe. To je grad obavijen mirisom "praška za robu", još i više mirisom onog starinskog, kafenog sapuna za pranje odjeće.
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Penzioneri u špaliru
Mali fenomen su i brojne butige s natpisom "Detersivi domestici" ili "Deterdženti za domaćinstvo", ima ih više nego marketa sa hranom iliti robom široke potrošnje.
Svugdi vonja sapun, i frigadura, malo zagoren maslac, toć, miriše kruh iz tostera. Ništa škampi i jastozi, oborita riba; tu miriše frigana girica, podgrijana pečena kokoš. Bari, volim te!
Ljudi su srdačni kao da ste prvi turist kojega su upoznali, posebice ako progovorite njihov jezik. Preporučit će vam najbolje orecchiette (lokalna manistra, specijalitet), objasniti da su tiramoli prekriveni ceradom zato jer bi "mogla kiša", ali ima i puno "tića" (koji rade, zna se što, pa bi mogli unerediti opranu robu). Reći će vam i da se mogu otkrhnuti komadići starih fasada, pa bi bilo dobro pripaziti. Ćakulat će s vama o uspomenama kad su plovili duž hrvatske obale zajedničkog nam mora Jadranskog, puno je tu starih "marinaija" (mornara). No, oni koji nisu plovili, jedva da su čuli za Split. Nemaju o njemu blagog pojma?! La piu palida idea, niente. Čini se da im opća kultura nije bogznakakva, barem ona geografska; jedva su se "ošervali" i na Hrvatsku, atroke Split. Nevjerojatno; a tako smo blizu!
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Penzioneri sjede u špaliru i na zidiću pored normanske fortice Castello Svevo di Bari. Među njima ima umirovljenih pomoraca, običnih radnika (građevina), ali i jedan arhitekt, signor Enzo Posca. Vlasnik je velike jahte i poznaje jadransku obalu s hrvatske "bande" bolje od mnogih Hrvata, posebice Istru, ali i srednju Dalmaciju; uskoro će put Rovinja, forza Enzo!
Nikad bliži
Antonio Floro nam ponosno veli da mu sin Matteo ima "suo servizio" (vodoinstalater je), ali i apartman za iznajmljivanje, dok nam Roberto Lanave, marangun, ponosno pokazuje konjića od punog drveta kojeg je sam izradio. Cavallino je perjanica njegove male kreativne butige (atelier artistico), i stoji 800 eura. Signor (šjor) Roberto poznaje Hrvatsku bolje od mnogih drugih Baresana jer je bio u Malom Lošinju, na Plitvicama...
- Anche a Sarajevo, Mostar... E tutto Croazia? - pita za susjedne nam gradove.
Rado bismo ostali u Bariju još koji dan, udomaćili se, možda i okupali na nekoj od plaža; to je teren kojega ćemo tek istražiti. Bari je ne samo srdačan i, rekli bismo, turistički neiskvaren, nego i - nikad bliži. Vraćamo ti se, Bari, amore mio!
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Duje Klarić/HANZA MEDIA
Ekipa sa zidića: Enzo Posca, Giuseppe Palesano, Bartolomeo Petarosa, Nicola Amoruso sa prijateljom ispred Normanske tvrđave
Duje Klarić/HANZA MEDIA
Ne suše se lancuni s logom hotela, nego sto puta oprana, malo zakrpljena bjankerija pokojne matere, babe..
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16. svibanj 2024 13:34
