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[title] => Dizajner Toni Carić Rico: Moda s pista nikad ne zaživi na ulicama! Pirić iz Arilea: Odvoznilo je uskom i neudobnom
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Zadnjih desetljeća smo se svega nagledali u kolekcijama muške mode koja se obično predstavljala na velikim tjednima mode, u modnim mekama Milanu, Londonu i Parizu.
Nakon prvih šokova, kad nam je prije dvadeset i više godina Miuccia Prada plasirala mušku kolekciju u kojoj su slabašni mladići nosili grudnjake, bilo je jasno da više ništa neće biti isto.
Bilo je i ruganja, podsmjehivanja, užasavanja, fotografije su se uz kojekakve komentare poslije razmjenjivale na društvenim mrežama uglavnom sa zajedničkim stavom komentatora da tako odjevenog momka ne bi pogledala nijedna djevojka.
Muške revije su nosile, a i danas ih nose djevojke, a bilo je i muških modela u predstavljanju ženskih kolekcija. Izgubila se različitost, a uniseks je zauzimalo sve više prostora.
Onda smo se "navikli" na modne izmišljotine, većinu u nekom trenutku više nije ni zanimalo što bi sve dizajneri izveli na modnim pistama, sve dok nas zadnji modni događaj Fashion Week u Parizu za proljeće ljeto 2024. godine, nije malo "smirio". Kolekcije muške mode dijelom su mogle izazvati i zavist zbog tragova klasike kojoj istinski zaljubljenici u modu baš nikada ne mogu odoljeti. Bez obzira je li riječ o odjeći za muškarce ili žene.
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Primjerice, za kuću Hermes kolekciju ležerne muške klasike dizajnirala je Veronique Nichanian te ju je opisala kao "nježan slatki ljetni povjetarac".
Kolekciju su činile prozirne rešetkaste košulje kratkih rukava i jakne preko prozirnih prsluka. Nešto duži sakoi završavali su odmah iznad kratkih hlačica. Isprepletena su bila labava pletiva za hladnije sate i teška svila za ljetne noći, a ribarske sandale bile su glavna obuća.
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I Diorova kolekcija počivala je na klasici, ali ovaj put na ženskoj. Kreativni direktor Diora, Kim Jones, evo već petu godinu potpisuje muške kolekciju za slavnu modnu kuću, a sada se pohvalio kako se osvrnuo na rad svojih slavnijih prethodnika u toj ‘fotelji‘ - Yvesa Saint Laurenta, Gianfranca Ferréa i Marca Bohana.
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Istražio je, kaže, arhivu kako bi mušku odjeću stavio na klasike ženske odjeće. Ali, svemu je dodao ekstravagantniju notu.
Kad već govorimo o velikim modnim kućama, ne možemo zaobići ni kuću Dries Van Notena čija je kolekcija za proljeće iduće godine naslovljena "Disrupted Elegance", što samo po sebi sve govori prije nego i pogledamo. Ipak, recimo da je kolekcija bila u znaku klasičnih balonera "kamilje" i tamnoplave boje, koji se nose potpuno zakopčani i uredno vezani remenom.
Silueta je bila izdužena s visokim strukom i širokim hlačama sa suzdržanim printom i ukrasima.
Sve ovo što opisujemo još uvijek ne zvuči kao muška moda, jer se tako mogu opisati i ženske kolekcije. Istina, nije šokantno onako kako nas je ono davno iznenadila Prada, ali još uvijek nije "po pravilima".
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- Mišljenja sam da je muška moda previše izašla iz okvira. Brišu se razlike između muške i ženske odjeće, a androgenost postaje društveni standard. Nestali su luksuz i elegancija.
Modne kuće pod kreativnim vodstvom modnih dizajnera koji ne poštuju tradiciju, gube svoj identitet. Nova nakaradna muška moda prima pohvale "modnog svijeta". Tome uvelike pridonose neuki modni novinari i influenseri. Osamdeset posto toga što gledamo na modnim pistama nikada ne zaživi na ulicama, kaže naš poznati dizajner Toni Carić Rico koji je prije nekoliko dana na hvarskom modnom događaju "FOR Fashion" predstavio svoju kolekciju za muškarce nazvanu "Buntovnik s razlogom".
- Kolekcija "Buntovnik s razlogom" presjek je mog 20 godišnjeg rada. Kvaliteta materijala i savršenstvo kroja uvijek su mi na prvom mjestu. Perfekcijom linija koje slijede tijelo izdvajajući prednosti i anulirajući nedostatke, želja mi je stvoriti nosive komade u kojima će se osoba osjećati udobno.
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Posežući za muškom klasikom, interpretirajući je na svoj način cilj mi je stvoriti nove bezvremenske komade. Protivnik sam hiperprodukcije te nikada ne pratim trendove. Rušeći predrasude oko boja i dezena, gradim iskonskog dandyja novog doba, kaže Carić na kraju.
O tome što se događa u modi pitali smo i Juricu Pirića, vlasnika branda "Arileo", iako je njegova preokupacija isključivo ženska moda. Prevelika ekstravagancija na modnim događajima se forsira samo radi stvaranja vidljivosti, da se o nekom brendu govori i piše, kaže nam Pirić.
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- Devedeset posto od toga se uopće ne nosi. Koliko pratim, mogu reći da je bilo eksperimentiranja, ali to je samo za publiku na samom događaju i za medije - veli nam Jurica Pirić dodajući da se to odnosi i na žensku i na mušku modu.
Trenutno se svi vraćaju klasici, jer je to siguran put. Usput, Pirić dodaje kako je uska i neudobna odjeća na odlasku.
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Zadnjih desetljeća smo se svega nagledali u kolekcijama muške mode koja se obično predstavljala na velikim tjednima mode, u modnim mekama Milanu, Londonu i Parizu.
Nakon prvih šokova, kad nam je prije dvadeset i više godina Miuccia Prada plasirala mušku kolekciju u kojoj su slabašni mladići nosili grudnjake, bilo je jasno da više ništa neće biti isto.
Bilo je i ruganja, podsmjehivanja, užasavanja, fotografije su se uz kojekakve komentare poslije razmjenjivale na društvenim mrežama uglavnom sa zajedničkim stavom komentatora da tako odjevenog momka ne bi pogledala nijedna djevojka.
Muške revije su nosile, a i danas ih nose djevojke, a bilo je i muških modela u predstavljanju ženskih kolekcija. Izgubila se različitost, a uniseks je zauzimalo sve više prostora.
Onda smo se "navikli" na modne izmišljotine, većinu u nekom trenutku više nije ni zanimalo što bi sve dizajneri izveli na modnim pistama, sve dok nas zadnji modni događaj Fashion Week u Parizu za proljeće ljeto 2024. godine, nije malo "smirio". Kolekcije muške mode dijelom su mogle izazvati i zavist zbog tragova klasike kojoj istinski zaljubljenici u modu baš nikada ne mogu odoljeti. Bez obzira je li riječ o odjeći za muškarce ili žene.
---
---
Primjerice, za kuću Hermes kolekciju ležerne muške klasike dizajnirala je Veronique Nichanian te ju je opisala kao "nježan slatki ljetni povjetarac".
Kolekciju su činile prozirne rešetkaste košulje kratkih rukava i jakne preko prozirnih prsluka. Nešto duži sakoi završavali su odmah iznad kratkih hlačica. Isprepletena su bila labava pletiva za hladnije sate i teška svila za ljetne noći, a ribarske sandale bile su glavna obuća.
---
---
I Diorova kolekcija počivala je na klasici, ali ovaj put na ženskoj. Kreativni direktor Diora, Kim Jones, evo već petu godinu potpisuje muške kolekciju za slavnu modnu kuću, a sada se pohvalio kako se osvrnuo na rad svojih slavnijih prethodnika u toj ‘fotelji‘ - Yvesa Saint Laurenta, Gianfranca Ferréa i Marca Bohana.
---
---
Istražio je, kaže, arhivu kako bi mušku odjeću stavio na klasike ženske odjeće. Ali, svemu je dodao ekstravagantniju notu.
Kad već govorimo o velikim modnim kućama, ne možemo zaobići ni kuću Dries Van Notena čija je kolekcija za proljeće iduće godine naslovljena "Disrupted Elegance", što samo po sebi sve govori prije nego i pogledamo. Ipak, recimo da je kolekcija bila u znaku klasičnih balonera "kamilje" i tamnoplave boje, koji se nose potpuno zakopčani i uredno vezani remenom.
Silueta je bila izdužena s visokim strukom i širokim hlačama sa suzdržanim printom i ukrasima.
Sve ovo što opisujemo još uvijek ne zvuči kao muška moda, jer se tako mogu opisati i ženske kolekcije. Istina, nije šokantno onako kako nas je ono davno iznenadila Prada, ali još uvijek nije "po pravilima".
---
---
- Mišljenja sam da je muška moda previše izašla iz okvira. Brišu se razlike između muške i ženske odjeće, a androgenost postaje društveni standard. Nestali su luksuz i elegancija.
Modne kuće pod kreativnim vodstvom modnih dizajnera koji ne poštuju tradiciju, gube svoj identitet. Nova nakaradna muška moda prima pohvale "modnog svijeta". Tome uvelike pridonose neuki modni novinari i influenseri. Osamdeset posto toga što gledamo na modnim pistama nikada ne zaživi na ulicama, kaže naš poznati dizajner Toni Carić Rico koji je prije nekoliko dana na hvarskom modnom događaju "FOR Fashion" predstavio svoju kolekciju za muškarce nazvanu "Buntovnik s razlogom".
- Kolekcija "Buntovnik s razlogom" presjek je mog 20 godišnjeg rada. Kvaliteta materijala i savršenstvo kroja uvijek su mi na prvom mjestu. Perfekcijom linija koje slijede tijelo izdvajajući prednosti i anulirajući nedostatke, želja mi je stvoriti nosive komade u kojima će se osoba osjećati udobno.
---
---
Posežući za muškom klasikom, interpretirajući je na svoj način cilj mi je stvoriti nove bezvremenske komade. Protivnik sam hiperprodukcije te nikada ne pratim trendove. Rušeći predrasude oko boja i dezena, gradim iskonskog dandyja novog doba, kaže Carić na kraju.
O tome što se događa u modi pitali smo i Juricu Pirića, vlasnika branda "Arileo", iako je njegova preokupacija isključivo ženska moda. Prevelika ekstravagancija na modnim događajima se forsira samo radi stvaranja vidljivosti, da se o nekom brendu govori i piše, kaže nam Pirić.
---
---
- Devedeset posto od toga se uopće ne nosi. Koliko pratim, mogu reći da je bilo eksperimentiranja, ali to je samo za publiku na samom događaju i za medije - veli nam Jurica Pirić dodajući da se to odnosi i na žensku i na mušku modu.
Trenutno se svi vraćaju klasici, jer je to siguran put. Usput, Pirić dodaje kako je uska i neudobna odjeća na odlasku.
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[alias] => Photo_gallery
)
[6] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 64
[name] => Promo
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 7
[alias] => promo
)
[8] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 67
[name] => Contains video
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 9
[alias] => contains_video
)
[9] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 68
[name] => Premium content
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 10
[alias] => premium_content
)
[10] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 69
[name] => Exclude comments
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 11
[alias] => exclude_comments
)
[11] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 70
[name] => Open link in new window
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 12
[alias] => open_link_in_new_window
)
[12] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 71
[name] => Horizontal crop of the main photo
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 13
[alias] => horizontal_crop_of_the_main_photo
)
[13] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 73
[name] => No-index
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 15
[alias] => no_index
)
[14] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 74
[name] => No-cache
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 16
[alias] => no_cache
)
[15] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 77
[name] => Don't show on the front page
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 17
[alias] => dont_show_on_the_front_page
)
[16] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 78
[name] => Related on bottom
[value] => ON
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 18
[alias] => related_on_bottom
)
[17] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 79
[name] => Live button
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 19
[alias] => live_button
)
[26] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 87
[name] => Instant articles
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 28
[alias] => instant_articles
)
[27] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 91
[name] => S preporučuje
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 29
[alias] => s_preporucuje
)
[28] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 92
[name] => S voli
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 30
[alias] => s_voli
)
[29] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 93
[name] => Layout with three photos
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 31
[alias] => layout_with_three_photos
)
[30] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 94
[name] => Gallery in the article
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 32
[alias] => gallery_in_the_article
)
[31] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 95
[name] => Required views
[value] => 0
[type] => textfield
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 33
[alias] => required_views
)
[32] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 96
[name] => FullHD image
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 34
[alias] => fullhd_image
)
[33] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 97
[name] => City Select
[value] => (0)
[type] => select
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 35
[alias] => CitySelect
)
[34] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 98
[name] => Paid Article
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 36
[alias] => paid_article
)
[35] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 99
[name] => SD na licu mjesta
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 37
[alias] => SD_na_licu_mjesta
)
)
15. svibanj 2024 12:42
