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Otkad je Nikolina Deranja na svom Facebook profilu objavila da je zgotovila koret, ne prestaju joj stizati čestitke sa svih strana, uživo i društvenim mrežama.

Nije to nikakvo čudo jer je vrijedna vezilja svojim rukama i trudom upravo oživjela dio svečane konavoske muške narodne nošnje kakvu se može vidjeti još samo u etnografskim muzejima, na smotrama folklora, župnim svetkovinama i, dakako, u godišnjoj procesiji za Festu svetoga Vlaha.

Nastavak s gunjcem

Autorica koreta Nikolina Deranja dočekala nas je u svom domu u Čubranovićevoj, gdje je izložila svoju najnoviju raskošnu rukotvorinu:

- Podrijetlom sam iz Konavala, iz Drvenika, bilo nas je 13 u kući, mama, baba i tete su uvijek nešto vezle i plele, a ja sam ih gledala i upijala znanje. Doma smo imali staru singericu i jednu 200 godina staru čermicu koju sam pošto - poto htjela napravit'. Prolazile su godine, pa nam se nedavno dogodila korona i ja sam baš tad tu u Gradu intenzivno počela raditi. I to na muškoj nošnji.

Odlučila sam se za koret, moj muž Luka zvani Gak bio mi je model. I tako, dok smo se svađali tko će gledat' nogomet a tko turske serije, ja sam gore na katu sjela ispred prozora i počela radit'– prisjeća se Nikolina početka velike pustolovine koju nakon koreta nastavlja izradom gunjca. A gunjac je zapravo ''nadogradnja'' nošnje koja u Konavljana sadrži niz slojeva.

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Tonci Plazibat/Cropix
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Preko košulje i gaća oko struka se opasuje vuneni ili svileni pas sa zataknutim bodežom (Nikolina je u Turskoj nabavila jatagan). Na košulju se odjene presomitača, prsluk bez rukava, zatim koret s dugim rukavima i napokon gunjac, neke vrste ogrtača... Darovita Nikolina, inače samouka umjetnica, spremna je uhvatiti se ukoštac upravo s tim izazovom.

- Gunjac je veće površine od koreta, bit će puno više ornamenata, ali ne bojim se. Dosta sam se krojeva nagledala, dosta fotografija s procesije snimila, pa ih doma uvećavala da proučim detalje, išla u Muzej Rupe i u zbirku u Čilipima... Kad sam bila mala čekala bih da žene iz kuće pođu leć, pa bih sjela za mašinu, šila... – govori nam Deranja. U njezinoj rodnoj kući u Drveniku su se, otkriva, uglavnom šile modrine, bjelače i duge bijele košulje.

Za kurđelice i pregače potreban je tkalački stan koji ona ne koristi:

- U mene je sve na ruke. Volim opipati materijal, pažljivo biram dezen, nekad je to kružić, nekad cvijet, a spoj mora biti u milimetar precizan jer ako pogriješite, u problemu ste. Koret se i inače radi po rukavima, puno treba spajati, zbog ukrasnih krugova moraš okretati robu da sve bude simetrično... Na samom početku sam falila nešto na laktu, ali sam brzo skontala pa nije bilo štete.

Sve u svemu, potrošila sam oko mjesec i pol na izradu, a radila sam navečer. Lakše je kad te ne pritišću rokovi, ali je opasno ako odustaneš, onda teško nastaviš gdje si stao. A ja bih, vjerujte, odustala skroz da sam mislila da radim nešto bez veze. Ali nisam i zato sam danas ponosna – veli ova ekonomistica s 22 godine staža u nekadašnjem Atlasu, odakle je otišla kao tehnološki višak.

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Tonći Plazibat/Cropix
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Danas se bavi iznajmljivanjem pa je ljeti zauzeta, a mjesece zimske utihe rezervira za korete i gunjce. Majka četiriju kćeri, Katije, Matee, Romane i Barbare, svakoj je napravila po jednu čermicu i četiri kapice, a svoju ljupku odoricu dobio je i Nikolinin dvogodišnji unuk David, Matein sin koji će uskoro dobiti brata.

Odijevanje za Festu

Nikolina s odijevanjem narodne nošnje ima iskustva još od djetinjstva, kad ih je profesor Jozo Hajduković s ansamblom vodio posvuda. A sa šivanjem muških nošnji stječe sve više znanja. Zasad će na odjeći za gospodu i ostati.

Ženska nošnja, barem zasad, nije joj još toliko inspirativna, makar o njoj sve zna i zanatski i kao o statusnom simbolu: Konavoke si u prošlosti mogao razlikovati po robi. Jedan pogled na nošnju otkrivao je je li udana freško ili davno, je li u koroti ili je neudana, podučava nas sugovornica koja je svojim koretom dala obol očuvanju barem djelića bogate konavoske baštine.

Konavoska muška nošnja sadrži čak tri kratka prsluka do pasa. Preko košulje i gaća je omotan pas od svile ili vune, te već spomenuti ''trio'' presomitača, koret i gunjac ili fremen. Stari izvori kažu da bi se odjeća za radne dane šivala od domaćeg sukna, a za praznike od finije čohe i leventinske svile, crvene s bijelim prugicama. Svečane prsluke krase pozlaćene žice i gajtani, a Nikolina je najbolje zlatne konce nabavila u Istanbulu, Kosovu, Trebinju...

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Otkad je Nikolina Deranja na svom Facebook profilu objavila da je zgotovila koret, ne prestaju joj stizati čestitke sa svih strana, uživo i društvenim mrežama.

Nije to nikakvo čudo jer je vrijedna vezilja svojim rukama i trudom upravo oživjela dio svečane konavoske muške narodne nošnje kakvu se može vidjeti još samo u etnografskim muzejima, na smotrama folklora, župnim svetkovinama i, dakako, u godišnjoj procesiji za Festu svetoga Vlaha.

Nastavak s gunjcem

Autorica koreta Nikolina Deranja dočekala nas je u svom domu u Čubranovićevoj, gdje je izložila svoju najnoviju raskošnu rukotvorinu:

- Podrijetlom sam iz Konavala, iz Drvenika, bilo nas je 13 u kući, mama, baba i tete su uvijek nešto vezle i plele, a ja sam ih gledala i upijala znanje. Doma smo imali staru singericu i jednu 200 godina staru čermicu koju sam pošto - poto htjela napravit'. Prolazile su godine, pa nam se nedavno dogodila korona i ja sam baš tad tu u Gradu intenzivno počela raditi. I to na muškoj nošnji.

Odlučila sam se za koret, moj muž Luka zvani Gak bio mi je model. I tako, dok smo se svađali tko će gledat' nogomet a tko turske serije, ja sam gore na katu sjela ispred prozora i počela radit'– prisjeća se Nikolina početka velike pustolovine koju nakon koreta nastavlja izradom gunjca. A gunjac je zapravo ''nadogradnja'' nošnje koja u Konavljana sadrži niz slojeva.

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Tonci Plazibat/Cropix
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Preko košulje i gaća oko struka se opasuje vuneni ili svileni pas sa zataknutim bodežom (Nikolina je u Turskoj nabavila jatagan). Na košulju se odjene presomitača, prsluk bez rukava, zatim koret s dugim rukavima i napokon gunjac, neke vrste ogrtača... Darovita Nikolina, inače samouka umjetnica, spremna je uhvatiti se ukoštac upravo s tim izazovom.

- Gunjac je veće površine od koreta, bit će puno više ornamenata, ali ne bojim se. Dosta sam se krojeva nagledala, dosta fotografija s procesije snimila, pa ih doma uvećavala da proučim detalje, išla u Muzej Rupe i u zbirku u Čilipima... Kad sam bila mala čekala bih da žene iz kuće pođu leć, pa bih sjela za mašinu, šila... – govori nam Deranja. U njezinoj rodnoj kući u Drveniku su se, otkriva, uglavnom šile modrine, bjelače i duge bijele košulje.

Za kurđelice i pregače potreban je tkalački stan koji ona ne koristi:

- U mene je sve na ruke. Volim opipati materijal, pažljivo biram dezen, nekad je to kružić, nekad cvijet, a spoj mora biti u milimetar precizan jer ako pogriješite, u problemu ste. Koret se i inače radi po rukavima, puno treba spajati, zbog ukrasnih krugova moraš okretati robu da sve bude simetrično... Na samom početku sam falila nešto na laktu, ali sam brzo skontala pa nije bilo štete.

Sve u svemu, potrošila sam oko mjesec i pol na izradu, a radila sam navečer. Lakše je kad te ne pritišću rokovi, ali je opasno ako odustaneš, onda teško nastaviš gdje si stao. A ja bih, vjerujte, odustala skroz da sam mislila da radim nešto bez veze. Ali nisam i zato sam danas ponosna – veli ova ekonomistica s 22 godine staža u nekadašnjem Atlasu, odakle je otišla kao tehnološki višak.

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Tonći Plazibat/Cropix
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Danas se bavi iznajmljivanjem pa je ljeti zauzeta, a mjesece zimske utihe rezervira za korete i gunjce. Majka četiriju kćeri, Katije, Matee, Romane i Barbare, svakoj je napravila po jednu čermicu i četiri kapice, a svoju ljupku odoricu dobio je i Nikolinin dvogodišnji unuk David, Matein sin koji će uskoro dobiti brata.

Odijevanje za Festu

Nikolina s odijevanjem narodne nošnje ima iskustva još od djetinjstva, kad ih je profesor Jozo Hajduković s ansamblom vodio posvuda. A sa šivanjem muških nošnji stječe sve više znanja. Zasad će na odjeći za gospodu i ostati.

Ženska nošnja, barem zasad, nije joj još toliko inspirativna, makar o njoj sve zna i zanatski i kao o statusnom simbolu: Konavoke si u prošlosti mogao razlikovati po robi. Jedan pogled na nošnju otkrivao je je li udana freško ili davno, je li u koroti ili je neudana, podučava nas sugovornica koja je svojim koretom dala obol očuvanju barem djelića bogate konavoske baštine.

Konavoska muška nošnja sadrži čak tri kratka prsluka do pasa. Preko košulje i gaća je omotan pas od svile ili vune, te već spomenuti ''trio'' presomitača, koret i gunjac ili fremen. Stari izvori kažu da bi se odjeća za radne dane šivala od domaćeg sukna, a za praznike od finije čohe i leventinske svile, crvene s bijelim prugicama. Svečane prsluke krase pozlaćene žice i gajtani, a Nikolina je najbolje zlatne konce nabavila u Istanbulu, Kosovu, Trebinju...

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Obalaraskošna rukotvorina

Konavoka izazvala oduševljenje, šivala je noćima i oživjela dio kulturne baštine: Znanje sam upijala od mame, tete i babe, a moj muž Luka bio mi je model

Piše Gabrijela Bijelić
2. veljače 2022. - 10:57
20672244
PREMIUM
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Tonci Plazibat/Cropix

Otkad je Nikolina Deranja na svom Facebook profilu objavila da je zgotovila koret, ne prestaju joj stizati čestitke sa svih strana, uživo i društvenim mrežama.

Nije to nikakvo čudo jer je vrijedna vezilja svojim rukama i trudom upravo oživjela dio svečane konavoske muške narodne nošnje kakvu se može vidjeti još samo u etnografskim muzejima, na smotrama folklora, župnim svetkovinama i, dakako, u godišnjoj procesiji za Festu svetoga Vlaha.

Nastavak s gunjcem

Autorica koreta Nikolina Deranja dočekala nas je u svom domu u Čubranovićevoj, gdje je izložila svoju najnoviju raskošnu rukotvorinu:

- Podrijetlom sam iz Konavala, iz Drvenika, bilo nas je 13 u kući, mama, baba i tete su uvijek nešto vezle i plele, a ja sam ih gledala i upijala znanje. Doma smo imali staru singericu i j...

#NIKOLINA DERANJA#KONAVOSKI KORET#KONAVLE#NARODNA NOŠNJA
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