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Ono što povezuje sve Konavoke zasigurno je umijeće izrade konavoske utkanice, dobro poznate pod nazivom konavoski vez. Prema dosadašnjim istraživanjima, ovaj oblik i način na koji nam je konavoski vez poznat uvriježen je u Konavlima preko dvjesto godina. U muzejima u Hrvatskoj i u svijetu, kao i u privatnim zbirkama, koliko znamo, ne postoje živi primjerci starijih poprsnica od onih iz 19. stoljeća. Međutim, na grafikama umjetnika, u putopisima, arhivskim spisima i spominjanjima u književnim djelima, vezena košulja nije nepoznata stvar.
---
---
Ravnateljica Muzeja i galerija Konavala Antonia Rusković Radonić napominje kako je u Konavlima vezenje konavoskoga veza bila rabota svih djevojaka do udaje. Vezovi su dio ruha, dote, odnosno prčije koja je u predindustrijskom vremenu bila u cijelosti vlastiti ručni rad. Lokalni trgovci s vremenom su nabavljali materijale potrebne za odijevanje, ali je vezeni dio ostao osobni predmet svake vezilje.
Počinjalo se u ranom djetinjstvu, ostatcima svile, vunice ili travom po nekom lošem postavu, a kad bi se svladalo tehniku, započinjalo se s vezovima koji će se nositi. Djevojčice su vezle na paši, učile od starijih, a donosile doma izvezene dijelove u izvještaj majci, teti ili kojoj drugoj ženi koja je pratila da se ruho priprema.
---
---
Do udaje bi zgotovile čak do četrdesetak vezova, ovisno o okolnostima, za sve svoje prilike. Poprsnice za svaki dan i kad su mlade i za starost, one za boljega, za misne prilike, posjete i odlaske u grad te one vrlo svečane za krsna imena, vjenčanja, svečanosti, najsvečaniji svakako za vlastito vjenčanje, a tako i za ukop.
Poznato nam je da su od početka 19. stoljeća žene vezle poprsnice i orukavlja odvojeno od tkiva košulje te su ih kao samostalne predmete prišivali uz košulje, no nije oduvijek bilo tako. Vez je prvotno bio dio tkiva odijela, u 18. stoljeću najvjerojatnije kao vezeno opleće koje se prišivalo uz donji dio košulje. Kako se vez odvojio od košulje, brojnim se primjercima moglo iskazivati stupnjevanje svečanosti ili korotnosti neke prilike. Inačice pojedinih uzoraka množile su se, a zajedno su rezultirale u tristotinjak različitih uzoraka koji se koriste u utkanicama konavoskoga veza.
---
---
Konavoskim vezom danas, pojašnjava ravnateljica Rusković Radonić, nazivamo sve što se veze iz palete uzoraka utkanica koje su se razvile u poprsnicama i orukavljima u Konavlima. Pa tako, osim u ruhu nevjesta, konavoski se vez u 20. stoljeću našao na velikom broju primjeraka crkvenog ruha, upotrebnih predmeta kao dekoracija odijela i pokućstva, ne samo u Konavlima već i u Dubrovniku, a i dalje.
Konavoski vez u ljeto 2015. Ministarstvo kulture zaštitilo je kao hrvatsko nematerijalno kulturno dobro. Time je zaštićena i njegova budućnost, jer će se, po strogim pravilima, provoditi mjere očuvanja, od prenošenje znanja, edukacije u smislu umijeća kao i istraživanja i širenja znanja o tom umijeću ručnog rada.
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[open_link_in_new_window] => stdClass Object
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[type] => radio
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[published] => 1
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[no_cache] => stdClass Object
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[type] => radio
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[ordering] => 16
[alias] => no_cache
)
[dont_show_on_the_front_page] => stdClass Object
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Ono što povezuje sve Konavoke zasigurno je umijeće izrade konavoske utkanice, dobro poznate pod nazivom konavoski vez. Prema dosadašnjim istraživanjima, ovaj oblik i način na koji nam je konavoski vez poznat uvriježen je u Konavlima preko dvjesto godina. U muzejima u Hrvatskoj i u svijetu, kao i u privatnim zbirkama, koliko znamo, ne postoje živi primjerci starijih poprsnica od onih iz 19. stoljeća. Međutim, na grafikama umjetnika, u putopisima, arhivskim spisima i spominjanjima u književnim djelima, vezena košulja nije nepoznata stvar.
---
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Ravnateljica Muzeja i galerija Konavala Antonia Rusković Radonić napominje kako je u Konavlima vezenje konavoskoga veza bila rabota svih djevojaka do udaje. Vezovi su dio ruha, dote, odnosno prčije koja je u predindustrijskom vremenu bila u cijelosti vlastiti ručni rad. Lokalni trgovci s vremenom su nabavljali materijale potrebne za odijevanje, ali je vezeni dio ostao osobni predmet svake vezilje.
Počinjalo se u ranom djetinjstvu, ostatcima svile, vunice ili travom po nekom lošem postavu, a kad bi se svladalo tehniku, započinjalo se s vezovima koji će se nositi. Djevojčice su vezle na paši, učile od starijih, a donosile doma izvezene dijelove u izvještaj majci, teti ili kojoj drugoj ženi koja je pratila da se ruho priprema.
---
---
Do udaje bi zgotovile čak do četrdesetak vezova, ovisno o okolnostima, za sve svoje prilike. Poprsnice za svaki dan i kad su mlade i za starost, one za boljega, za misne prilike, posjete i odlaske u grad te one vrlo svečane za krsna imena, vjenčanja, svečanosti, najsvečaniji svakako za vlastito vjenčanje, a tako i za ukop.
Poznato nam je da su od početka 19. stoljeća žene vezle poprsnice i orukavlja odvojeno od tkiva košulje te su ih kao samostalne predmete prišivali uz košulje, no nije oduvijek bilo tako. Vez je prvotno bio dio tkiva odijela, u 18. stoljeću najvjerojatnije kao vezeno opleće koje se prišivalo uz donji dio košulje. Kako se vez odvojio od košulje, brojnim se primjercima moglo iskazivati stupnjevanje svečanosti ili korotnosti neke prilike. Inačice pojedinih uzoraka množile su se, a zajedno su rezultirale u tristotinjak različitih uzoraka koji se koriste u utkanicama konavoskoga veza.
---
---
Konavoskim vezom danas, pojašnjava ravnateljica Rusković Radonić, nazivamo sve što se veze iz palete uzoraka utkanica koje su se razvile u poprsnicama i orukavljima u Konavlima. Pa tako, osim u ruhu nevjesta, konavoski se vez u 20. stoljeću našao na velikom broju primjeraka crkvenog ruha, upotrebnih predmeta kao dekoracija odijela i pokućstva, ne samo u Konavlima već i u Dubrovniku, a i dalje.
Konavoski vez u ljeto 2015. Ministarstvo kulture zaštitilo je kao hrvatsko nematerijalno kulturno dobro. Time je zaštićena i njegova budućnost, jer će se, po strogim pravilima, provoditi mjere očuvanja, od prenošenje znanja, edukacije u smislu umijeća kao i istraživanja i širenja znanja o tom umijeću ručnog rada.
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19. svibanj 2024 08:18
