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[title] => Oni su moderni Spidermeni: ni jedna im prepreka na putu do vrha ne predstavlja problem već izazov. Ovo je priča o sportskim penjačima iz kluba Paklenica
[alias] => oni-su-moderni-spidermeni-ni-jedna-im-prepreka-na-putu-do-vrha-ne-predstavlja-problem-vec-izazov-ovo-je-prica-o-sportskim-penjacima-iz-kluba-paklenica
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Oni su moderni Spidermani: ni jedna im prepreka na putu do vrha ne predstavlja problem već izazov koji moraju riješiti samo s dvije ruke. Točnije s jakim prstima i – još jačom glavom. Govorimo o zadarskim penjačima Sportsko penjačkog kluba Paklenica, jedinog takvog u Zadru, koji su prije tjedan dana otvorili vrata svojih novih prostorija, unutar Privatne osnovne i srednje škole, pa tako i nove stijene.
Ovo im je, kako su nam pojasnili predsjednik kluba Hrvoje Grancarić i glavni trener, Ante Jerolimov, treća po redu.
- Ne zato što smo mi htjeli nove stijene, već su se, nažalost, okolnosti tako poklopile – govori nam Hrvoje referirajući se na njihove ”izgone” iz prijašnjih prostorija.
- Prvo smo bili u na prizemlju sadašnjeg vrtića ”Radost”, na Višnjiku. Kad je tu došao vrtić, prebacili smo se na kat iznad. Onda su odlučili vrtić proširiti, pa smo morali pronaći adekvatne prostore u blizini. Direktor SC Višnjik, Denis Karlović, imao je za nas sluha te nam je ponudio ovu sadašnju prostoriju – govori Hrvoje. Pojašnjava, tek su zapravo od nedavno pravi klub. Prije toga bili su dio Planinarskog društva ”Paklenica” i vodili su se pod sekcijom sportskog penjanja.
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- Ta je sekcija osnovana sad već davne 1996. kao dio najbrojnije zadarske udruge, PD ”Paklenice“. Godišnje su imali oko 50 do 80 članova. Prije nekoliko godina, točnije 2018., Zakon o sportu je definirao sportsko penjanje kao sport te smo se zbog toga morali odvojiti i osamostaliti. Postati pravi klub! Zato nam je i preseljenje nekako savršeno došlo kao ”novi početak”, osobito nakon velike pauze zbog pandemije. Dosta članova smo izgubili, čak i jednu trenericu. No, sad lagano gradimo jednu novu, ljepšu priču, prvi put kao klub i vjerujemo da smo na dobrom putu – govori nam trener Ante, a upravo njegove riječi potvrđuju i scene s večernjeg treninga: puna dvorana ljudi raznih profila i godina. Uživaju penjući se, smišljajući najbolji način do vrha. Svaki je potez pomno razrađen.
- Čar ovog sporta je upravo u razmišljanju. Ovo je poput 3D šaha! Znate, penjanje je jedan on osnovnih oblika kretanja, uz hodanje, trčanje, skakanje... To je nešto što mi svi, od rođenja, imamo u sebi. Građeni smo jako dobro a penjanje. Ovaj sport kod djece, ali i odraslih, razvija cijeli niz oblika snage. Od repetitivne, statičke i slično. Ima utjecaj na ravnotežu, na koordinaciju koja je pak povezana sa psihičkim djelom – pojašnjava Ante te nastavlja:
- U natjecateljskom dijelu penju se ”smjerovi”. Mi te smjerove nazivamo problemima, koje mi u 3D prostoru moramo riješiti. Ima jako puno razmišljanja jer doslovno svaki svoj potez moraš ‘iskalkulirati‘ i zapravo znati iskoristiti ono u čemu si jak: možda je neko fleksibilniji, neko drugi jači u hvatu. Sve te segmente treba ukomponirati kako bi se taj problem, odnosno smjer, riješio. Većina sportova ima i onaj ‘faktor sreće‘. U penjanju je on smanjen na minimum jer moraš biti kompletno involviran u to što radiš. Koliko daš, toliko ćeš i dobiti – ističe Ante koji je po struci kineziolog i, uz volontiranje u ovom klubu, predaje u tjelesni školi.
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Da, i predsjednik i trener u ovom su klubu isključivo iz – ljubavi. A znamo dobro da se od ljubavi ipak ne živi.
- Mi smo svjesni da je broj klubova u gradu velik i da svi oni, odnosno svi mi, tražimo dio tog financijskog kolača. Nažalost, naš je sport na marginama u Zadru, rijetko ga se doživljava ozbiljno, pa su nam takve i financije. Mnogi nas još uvijek doživlajvaju kao kakve alternativce koji se ‘pentraju‘ – govori nam Hrvoje te sitiče kako su, nedavno, prije nego su uselili u nove prostore, potrošili novce iz svog džepa.
- Sve smo o svom trošku radili: čišćenje i bacanje smeća, najam kombija, odvoz, građevinske radove... Spasila nas je donacija OTP Banke od 30.000 kuna koja je prepoznala naš projekt kao vrijedan financiranja. Nažalost, potrebna su nam ozbiljnija ulaganja jer još uvijek nismo riješili sanitarni čvor koji je za sad van funkcije, a i krovište nam prokišnjava – nabraja Hrvoje te ističe kako su trenutno zadovoljni s ‘bolderom‘ (stijenom).
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- On je privremeno rješenje jer mi još uvijek u našim prostorima ne možemo organizirati natjecanja. Zato su nam, iskreno, dugoročni snovi vlastita dvorana od 300 kvadrata ili više, bilo to u sklopu neke druge dvorane ili pak samostojeće zgrade. Svjesni smo da je to ogroman projekt koji naš klub sam ne može isfinancirati, ali to je doživotno rješavanje naših problema. Mi trebamo partnerstvo, bio to Grad Zadar, SC Višnjik, Sveučilište. Upravo smo njima već predstavili naš plam, točnije cijeli arhitektonski projekt koji je napravio naš kolega penjač, po struci arhitekt, s okvirnim troškovnikom. Napravili smo im prezentaciju s ciljevima, SWOT analizom, poslovnim plan... Moram priznati da su bili impresionirani, no ostalo je na tome. Ipak, bit ćemo strpljivi i stavljamo se na raspolaganje. Postoji potražnja za ovim sportom, uostalom, 2020. je postao Olimpijski sport. To je indikator da ovaj sport raste – pojašnjavaju ova dva entuzijasta koji ističu kako su već sad zbog manjka prostora, s 20 ljudi koji dođu na termin, prepuni.
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- I zato nam treba veća dvorana. Također, trenutno možemo pružiti polaznicima samo učenje jedne discipline, a ne tri koliko ih ima jer jednostavno nemamo uvjeta. Također, nemamo mogućnost trajnijeg zapošljavanja trenera sportskog penjanja i ostalog osoblja. Članovima GSS-a, koji su ujedno članovi PK ”Paklenica”, onemogućen je trening u našem gradu. Zamislite, u Splitu postoje tri sportsko penjačka kluba i tri dvorane za penjanje, dok je u Zagrebu pet klubova s četiri dvorane. I Bibinje ima svoju dvoranu sa stijenom koje je viša od naše – ističe Ante te dodaje kao primjer da velik broj osnovnih škola u Sloveniji ima stijene u svojim dvoranama.
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Osim penjanja, održavaju važne staze
Osim što Hrvoje i Ante vode treninge, održavaju lokalna penjališta otok Ugljan, točnije kod sv. Mihovila, Željina litica, penjalište ”Karin” kod kanjona Rijeke Bijele te naravno, Nacionalni park ”Paklenica” odakle su svi i krenuli s penjanjem.
- Mnogi ne znaju da je NP Paklenica jedno od najboljih europskih penjališta, zapravo svjetski je poznata penjačka destinacija i svake godine privlači veliki broj stranih penjača. Svi mi u klubu smo stasali na tim stijenama, i uvijek kad dođu ljepša vremena odlazimo tamo malo vježbati. Jer, naravno da je razlika penjati se u dvorani i na pravoj stijeni. Zanimljivo je kako jedno privlači drugo: ako je netko počeo na planini, često dođe vježbati u dvoranu, a netko tko je iskusio samo dvoranu, želi isprobati svoje vještine na pravoj stijeni. No, naravno da ima i onih kojih ta ide ja uopće ne privlači i drže se samo našeg ‘boldera‘ – smije se Hrvoje.
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Deep Water solo kao idealna reklama za ovaj sport
Kako bi javnosti približili ovaj sport i popularizirali ga među širim masama, od 2017. pokrenuli su zanimljivo outdoor natjecanje Deep Water Solo: natjecanje u brzinskom penjanju na stijenama Punta Bajla na kojem svake godine sudjeluje oko 40 natjecatelja. Desetag godina organiziraju i Sv. Krševan Boulder open, natjecanje u sportskom penjanju u kategoriji ”boulder” na kojem sudjeluje oko 70 natjecatelja.
- Trudimo se koliko znamo i umijemo, samo se nadamo da ćemo, zbog dobrobiti naših Zadrana, dobiti vjetar u leđa od onih koji nam zaista mogu pomoći – zaključili su Hrvoje i Ante.
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Radnim danom od 19:00 do 21:00, od 10 do 40 penjača po terminu
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U posljednje 3 natjecateljske godine (2016.-2019.) ukupno 7 odličja na državnim prvenstvima u disciplinama težinsko i „boulder”:
3 x 2. MJESTO/SREBRNA MEDALJA
4 x 3. MJESTO/BRONČANA MEDALJA
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\n\u00a0predsjednik kluba Hrvoje Grancaric i trener Ante Jerolimov.
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[language] => *
[multi_author] => 0
[type_id] => 204
[category] => TableOCMCategory Object
(
[id] => 310
[name] => Zadar plus
[alias] => zadar-plus
[description] =>
[parent] => 301
[extraFieldsGroup] => 9
[published] => 1
[image] =>
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Hrvoje Grancarić i Ante Jerolimov vode prvi (i jedini) zadarski penjački klub
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Oni su moderni Spidermani: ni jedna im prepreka na putu do vrha ne predstavlja problem već izazov koji moraju riješiti samo s dvije ruke. Točnije s jakim prstima i – još jačom glavom. Govorimo o zadarskim penjačima Sportsko penjačkog kluba Paklenica, jedinog takvog u Zadru, koji su prije tjedan dana otvorili vrata svojih novih prostorija, unutar Privatne osnovne i srednje škole, pa tako i nove stijene.
Ovo im je, kako su nam pojasnili predsjednik kluba Hrvoje Grancarić i glavni trener, Ante Jerolimov, treća po redu.
- Ne zato što smo mi htjeli nove stijene, već su se, nažalost, okolnosti tako poklopile – govori nam Hrvoje referirajući se na njihove ”izgone” iz prijašnjih prostorija.
- Prvo smo bili u na prizemlju sadašnjeg vrtića ”Radost”, na Višnjiku. Kad je tu došao vrtić, prebacili smo se na kat iznad. Onda su odlučili vrtić proširiti, pa smo morali pronaći adekvatne prostore u blizini. Direktor SC Višnjik, Denis Karlović, imao je za nas sluha te nam je ponudio ovu sadašnju prostoriju – govori Hrvoje. Pojašnjava, tek su zapravo od nedavno pravi klub. Prije toga bili su dio Planinarskog društva ”Paklenica” i vodili su se pod sekcijom sportskog penjanja.
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- Ta je sekcija osnovana sad već davne 1996. kao dio najbrojnije zadarske udruge, PD ”Paklenice“. Godišnje su imali oko 50 do 80 članova. Prije nekoliko godina, točnije 2018., Zakon o sportu je definirao sportsko penjanje kao sport te smo se zbog toga morali odvojiti i osamostaliti. Postati pravi klub! Zato nam je i preseljenje nekako savršeno došlo kao ”novi početak”, osobito nakon velike pauze zbog pandemije. Dosta članova smo izgubili, čak i jednu trenericu. No, sad lagano gradimo jednu novu, ljepšu priču, prvi put kao klub i vjerujemo da smo na dobrom putu – govori nam trener Ante, a upravo njegove riječi potvrđuju i scene s večernjeg treninga: puna dvorana ljudi raznih profila i godina. Uživaju penjući se, smišljajući najbolji način do vrha. Svaki je potez pomno razrađen.
- Čar ovog sporta je upravo u razmišljanju. Ovo je poput 3D šaha! Znate, penjanje je jedan on osnovnih oblika kretanja, uz hodanje, trčanje, skakanje... To je nešto što mi svi, od rođenja, imamo u sebi. Građeni smo jako dobro a penjanje. Ovaj sport kod djece, ali i odraslih, razvija cijeli niz oblika snage. Od repetitivne, statičke i slično. Ima utjecaj na ravnotežu, na koordinaciju koja je pak povezana sa psihičkim djelom – pojašnjava Ante te nastavlja:
- U natjecateljskom dijelu penju se ”smjerovi”. Mi te smjerove nazivamo problemima, koje mi u 3D prostoru moramo riješiti. Ima jako puno razmišljanja jer doslovno svaki svoj potez moraš ‘iskalkulirati‘ i zapravo znati iskoristiti ono u čemu si jak: možda je neko fleksibilniji, neko drugi jači u hvatu. Sve te segmente treba ukomponirati kako bi se taj problem, odnosno smjer, riješio. Većina sportova ima i onaj ‘faktor sreće‘. U penjanju je on smanjen na minimum jer moraš biti kompletno involviran u to što radiš. Koliko daš, toliko ćeš i dobiti – ističe Ante koji je po struci kineziolog i, uz volontiranje u ovom klubu, predaje u tjelesni školi.
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Da, i predsjednik i trener u ovom su klubu isključivo iz – ljubavi. A znamo dobro da se od ljubavi ipak ne živi.
- Mi smo svjesni da je broj klubova u gradu velik i da svi oni, odnosno svi mi, tražimo dio tog financijskog kolača. Nažalost, naš je sport na marginama u Zadru, rijetko ga se doživljava ozbiljno, pa su nam takve i financije. Mnogi nas još uvijek doživlajvaju kao kakve alternativce koji se ‘pentraju‘ – govori nam Hrvoje te sitiče kako su, nedavno, prije nego su uselili u nove prostore, potrošili novce iz svog džepa.
- Sve smo o svom trošku radili: čišćenje i bacanje smeća, najam kombija, odvoz, građevinske radove... Spasila nas je donacija OTP Banke od 30.000 kuna koja je prepoznala naš projekt kao vrijedan financiranja. Nažalost, potrebna su nam ozbiljnija ulaganja jer još uvijek nismo riješili sanitarni čvor koji je za sad van funkcije, a i krovište nam prokišnjava – nabraja Hrvoje te ističe kako su trenutno zadovoljni s ‘bolderom‘ (stijenom).
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- On je privremeno rješenje jer mi još uvijek u našim prostorima ne možemo organizirati natjecanja. Zato su nam, iskreno, dugoročni snovi vlastita dvorana od 300 kvadrata ili više, bilo to u sklopu neke druge dvorane ili pak samostojeće zgrade. Svjesni smo da je to ogroman projekt koji naš klub sam ne može isfinancirati, ali to je doživotno rješavanje naših problema. Mi trebamo partnerstvo, bio to Grad Zadar, SC Višnjik, Sveučilište. Upravo smo njima već predstavili naš plam, točnije cijeli arhitektonski projekt koji je napravio naš kolega penjač, po struci arhitekt, s okvirnim troškovnikom. Napravili smo im prezentaciju s ciljevima, SWOT analizom, poslovnim plan... Moram priznati da su bili impresionirani, no ostalo je na tome. Ipak, bit ćemo strpljivi i stavljamo se na raspolaganje. Postoji potražnja za ovim sportom, uostalom, 2020. je postao Olimpijski sport. To je indikator da ovaj sport raste – pojašnjavaju ova dva entuzijasta koji ističu kako su već sad zbog manjka prostora, s 20 ljudi koji dođu na termin, prepuni.
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- I zato nam treba veća dvorana. Također, trenutno možemo pružiti polaznicima samo učenje jedne discipline, a ne tri koliko ih ima jer jednostavno nemamo uvjeta. Također, nemamo mogućnost trajnijeg zapošljavanja trenera sportskog penjanja i ostalog osoblja. Članovima GSS-a, koji su ujedno članovi PK ”Paklenica”, onemogućen je trening u našem gradu. Zamislite, u Splitu postoje tri sportsko penjačka kluba i tri dvorane za penjanje, dok je u Zagrebu pet klubova s četiri dvorane. I Bibinje ima svoju dvoranu sa stijenom koje je viša od naše – ističe Ante te dodaje kao primjer da velik broj osnovnih škola u Sloveniji ima stijene u svojim dvoranama.
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Osim penjanja, održavaju važne staze
Osim što Hrvoje i Ante vode treninge, održavaju lokalna penjališta otok Ugljan, točnije kod sv. Mihovila, Željina litica, penjalište ”Karin” kod kanjona Rijeke Bijele te naravno, Nacionalni park ”Paklenica” odakle su svi i krenuli s penjanjem.
- Mnogi ne znaju da je NP Paklenica jedno od najboljih europskih penjališta, zapravo svjetski je poznata penjačka destinacija i svake godine privlači veliki broj stranih penjača. Svi mi u klubu smo stasali na tim stijenama, i uvijek kad dođu ljepša vremena odlazimo tamo malo vježbati. Jer, naravno da je razlika penjati se u dvorani i na pravoj stijeni. Zanimljivo je kako jedno privlači drugo: ako je netko počeo na planini, često dođe vježbati u dvoranu, a netko tko je iskusio samo dvoranu, želi isprobati svoje vještine na pravoj stijeni. No, naravno da ima i onih kojih ta ide ja uopće ne privlači i drže se samo našeg ‘boldera‘ – smije se Hrvoje.
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Deep Water solo kao idealna reklama za ovaj sport
Kako bi javnosti približili ovaj sport i popularizirali ga među širim masama, od 2017. pokrenuli su zanimljivo outdoor natjecanje Deep Water Solo: natjecanje u brzinskom penjanju na stijenama Punta Bajla na kojem svake godine sudjeluje oko 40 natjecatelja. Desetag godina organiziraju i Sv. Krševan Boulder open, natjecanje u sportskom penjanju u kategoriji ”boulder” na kojem sudjeluje oko 70 natjecatelja.
- Trudimo se koliko znamo i umijemo, samo se nadamo da ćemo, zbog dobrobiti naših Zadrana, dobiti vjetar u leđa od onih koji nam zaista mogu pomoći – zaključili su Hrvoje i Ante.
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Radnim danom od 19:00 do 21:00, od 10 do 40 penjača po terminu
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U posljednje 3 natjecateljske godine (2016.-2019.) ukupno 7 odličja na državnim prvenstvima u disciplinama težinsko i „boulder”:
3 x 2. MJESTO/SREBRNA MEDALJA
4 x 3. MJESTO/BRONČANA MEDALJA
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predsjednik kluba Hrvoje Grancarić i trener Ante Jerolimov.
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15. svibanj 2024 10:48
