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[title] => Damir Šarac: Di je ugazija turizam, tu je tradicija umrla ili glumi da postoji. Tako je Split posta kingdom of burger
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Sitit će se stariji one kampanje iz polovice devedesetih godina, kad je Split počeja tirat ćevape s tadašnjih popularnih pučkih fešta: bilo ih je na sve strane: u Radunici, Velome Varošu, na Sudamju, Matejuški, po kvartovima. Ćevapi su godinama bili zaštitni znak gradskih manifestacija: brzo se spremaju, ne šporkaješ ruke, a nešto si izija konkretno, moš se napit iza njih.
U ta doba zadimile su gradele po pjacetama, mandračima i kalama: na sve strane pekle su se srdele. Bija je to naš gastronomski otpor, rat za povratak korijenima: nećemo Balkan, dajte nan Mediteran, dajte nan spizu didova!
Žerava je trajala neko vrime a onda se udunila. Srdele nisu loše, samo su komplicirane za jist s nogu, kapa uje, izmastiš se cili, velike su šanse da ćeš se kanit po blagdanskoj robi. Posli su došli turisti, a s njima smo i mi izminili jelovnik, posta je popularan fusion, šta oće reć sve i svašta.
Ispali smo s liste
Prije nekoliko dana izašla je na Amazing maps - a rič je o međunarodnoj internetskoj platformi koja istraživanja i ankete iz ciloga svita pritvara u lako čitljive mape - jedna takva karta koja se tiče prehrambenih običaja. Ova mapa bavi se pitanjen koliko se u Evropi uobičajilo jist lokalnu, a koliko uvoznu spizu. I šta ćeš vidit, Hrvatska, biser Mediterana koja se fura na tradicionalno, izvorno i starinsko, jedina je mediteranska zemlja koja je ispala s liste država u kojima dominira domaća, lokalna spiza!
Jasno vidljivon linijon podilija se kontinent: od Turske do Portugala, uključujući i balkanske zemlje, dominira domaća prehrana, a cili sjever od Slovenije put gori uvozna. A jedina zemlja na Mediteranu koja je ispala s popisa "domaćih" je Hrvatska. Ajde i Slovenija, ali ona ima jedan komadić Mediterana, puno manje od nas i od naše reklamne kampanje. Tako se mi godinama zavaravamo da se u nas papa samo domaće i naše.
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Među mojin prijatejima pojavila se sumnja u točnost ovih podataka, a onda je tribalo provjerit na licu mista šta se u nas muma. Zoven jednoga iskusnoga dostavljača:
Šta ti najviše naručuju?
Nije se puno mislija:
- Burger, bez greške, meni se čini da cili Split tare samo burgere. Jel ti viruješ da su i na Veliki petak baš burgere naručivali ka ludi! To se ne minja i u sezoni i izvan sezone. Splićani su navučeni na burgere, ludi su za njima.
A iza toga?
- Nije komplicirano: japanski sushi i kineska spiza. To ide na vagune. Onda dolaze pizze, ali mogu ti reć da više nisu u điru ka prije.
A ovako od naše, dalmatinske spize?
- Misliš ka pašticada?
Ona je venecijanska, al nema veze...
- Ritko. Sarme?
Turske, al nije bitno. Ulizaju u Mediteran.
- Slabo to ide. Ne sićan se kad san vozija.
A neka, bilo kakva riba, nešto morsko?
- Je, favoriti su lignje. Ali isključivo na kolutiće!
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A onda dolče garbo, tripice, soparnik, komiška pogača?
- Ne pamtin kad je to neko naručija.
Lešade, brujeti?
- Jel me zaj...!?
Aha. A slatko? Rožata? Paradižot? Imotska torta? Fritule?
- Samo palačinke. S nutelon ako može.
Za nevirne Tome, tako glasi izvještaj s terena.
Nije važno jelo nego namirnice
Još ćemo malo proćakulat, nazvali smo jednu šeficu dalmatinskoga restorana u malome mistu, čuvenome po izričito domaćoj spizi.
- A slušaj, ne bi komentirala druge. U nas je samo domaća spiza. Ali možda je to istraživanje faliveno. Zašto? Zato šta meni nije na prvome mistu jelo u ponudi, je li ono baš s našega škoja ili iz Vlaške, nego kvaliteta namirnica koje idu u jelo. Razumiš?
Oću ti reć da jedan burger, ako je od crne slavonske svinje ili domaće janjetine, može bit vrhunsko jelo, samo mora bit od izvornih namirnica. Svi naši restorani imaju u ponudi i ribu, školjke, ubotnice, rakove... Ali većinom je to, da prostiš, govnu brat. Bilo bi bolje da imaju čipi-čips pa da je od domaćih kumpira nego "jadransku" ribu s drugoga kraja svita, ko zna di i ko zna kad ulovljenu.
Ali šta možeš. Di je ugazija turizam, tu se tradicija ili prikinila ili se samo čini finta da postoji. Za toliku količinu turista, a govorimo o milijunima obroka šta se spremaju u sezoni, mi nemamo kapacitet ni resurse za kuvat naveliko. Ako se neko posveti izrazito domaćemu, ka šta smo mi, onda ti cili dan i cilu godinu traje samo nabava. Moraš znat male proizvođače, pa to vozit, dovozit... Totalno se posvetit. Bit samo ugostitelj. Zato bolje ništa i ne spominjat. Ne virujen ti ja u te ankete. Ajde iden kuvat, zagorit će mi – rekla nan je kuvarica.
Nije lako govorit pametno o spizi, ljudi moji. Posebno u današnje vrime, kad se jede nikad gore, a nikad se više nije govorilo o kuvanju. Ima na televiziji programa šta 24 ure prikazuju samo kužinavanje. Šteta šta niko nema vrimena za to.
Dalmacija je desetljećima kuvala uvik isto i s par iznimki. Ali šta kaže ova moja, sirovina je bila glavna. Tu našu skromnu spizu ne bi ni moga ponudit današnjim turistima. Ma skuvat ćeš mu lešo ražu jedan dan, ka egzotiku, ali sutra će mu tribat više, jače, ovoj omladini koja će i ovo lito partijat po Splitu triba force. Ka, recimo, jedan lipi burger od uvoznoga mesa plus palačinke.
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page_title=Damir Šarac: Di je ugazija turizam, tu je tradicija umrla ili glumi da postoji. Tako je Split posta kingdom of burger
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Jel ti viruješ da su i na Veliki petak baš burgere naručivali ka ludi! To se ne minja i u sezoni i izvan sezone. Splićani su navučeni na burgere, ludi su za njima, govori jedan iskusni dostavljač
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Jel ti viruješ da su i na Veliki petak baš burgere naručivali ka ludi! To se ne minja i u sezoni i izvan sezone. Splićani su navučeni na burgere, ludi su za njima, govori jedan iskusni dostavljač
Nikola VILIĆ/SPLIT
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A nego...
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Srdele na gradele? Ma je...
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Sitit će se stariji one kampanje iz polovice devedesetih godina, kad je Split počeja tirat ćevape s tadašnjih popularnih pučkih fešta: bilo ih je na sve strane: u Radunici, Velome Varošu, na Sudamju, Matejuški, po kvartovima. Ćevapi su godinama bili zaštitni znak gradskih manifestacija: brzo se spremaju, ne šporkaješ ruke, a nešto si izija konkretno, moš se napit iza njih.
U ta doba zadimile su gradele po pjacetama, mandračima i kalama: na sve strane pekle su se srdele. Bija je to naš gastronomski otpor, rat za povratak korijenima: nećemo Balkan, dajte nan Mediteran, dajte nan spizu didova!
Žerava je trajala neko vrime a onda se udunila. Srdele nisu loše, samo su komplicirane za jist s nogu, kapa uje, izmastiš se cili, velike su šanse da ćeš se kanit po blagdanskoj robi. Posli su došli turisti, a s njima smo i mi izminili jelovnik, posta je popularan fusion, šta oće reć sve i svašta.
Ispali smo s liste
Prije nekoliko dana izašla je na Amazing maps - a rič je o međunarodnoj internetskoj platformi koja istraživanja i ankete iz ciloga svita pritvara u lako čitljive mape - jedna takva karta koja se tiče prehrambenih običaja. Ova mapa bavi se pitanjen koliko se u Evropi uobičajilo jist lokalnu, a koliko uvoznu spizu. I šta ćeš vidit, Hrvatska, biser Mediterana koja se fura na tradicionalno, izvorno i starinsko, jedina je mediteranska zemlja koja je ispala s liste država u kojima dominira domaća, lokalna spiza!
Jasno vidljivon linijon podilija se kontinent: od Turske do Portugala, uključujući i balkanske zemlje, dominira domaća prehrana, a cili sjever od Slovenije put gori uvozna. A jedina zemlja na Mediteranu koja je ispala s popisa "domaćih" je Hrvatska. Ajde i Slovenija, ali ona ima jedan komadić Mediterana, puno manje od nas i od naše reklamne kampanje. Tako se mi godinama zavaravamo da se u nas papa samo domaće i naše.
---
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Među mojin prijatejima pojavila se sumnja u točnost ovih podataka, a onda je tribalo provjerit na licu mista šta se u nas muma. Zoven jednoga iskusnoga dostavljača:
Šta ti najviše naručuju?
Nije se puno mislija:
- Burger, bez greške, meni se čini da cili Split tare samo burgere. Jel ti viruješ da su i na Veliki petak baš burgere naručivali ka ludi! To se ne minja i u sezoni i izvan sezone. Splićani su navučeni na burgere, ludi su za njima.
A iza toga?
- Nije komplicirano: japanski sushi i kineska spiza. To ide na vagune. Onda dolaze pizze, ali mogu ti reć da više nisu u điru ka prije.
A ovako od naše, dalmatinske spize?
- Misliš ka pašticada?
Ona je venecijanska, al nema veze...
- Ritko. Sarme?
Turske, al nije bitno. Ulizaju u Mediteran.
- Slabo to ide. Ne sićan se kad san vozija.
A neka, bilo kakva riba, nešto morsko?
- Je, favoriti su lignje. Ali isključivo na kolutiće!
---
---
A onda dolče garbo, tripice, soparnik, komiška pogača?
- Ne pamtin kad je to neko naručija.
Lešade, brujeti?
- Jel me zaj...!?
Aha. A slatko? Rožata? Paradižot? Imotska torta? Fritule?
- Samo palačinke. S nutelon ako može.
Za nevirne Tome, tako glasi izvještaj s terena.
Nije važno jelo nego namirnice
Još ćemo malo proćakulat, nazvali smo jednu šeficu dalmatinskoga restorana u malome mistu, čuvenome po izričito domaćoj spizi.
- A slušaj, ne bi komentirala druge. U nas je samo domaća spiza. Ali možda je to istraživanje faliveno. Zašto? Zato šta meni nije na prvome mistu jelo u ponudi, je li ono baš s našega škoja ili iz Vlaške, nego kvaliteta namirnica koje idu u jelo. Razumiš?
Oću ti reć da jedan burger, ako je od crne slavonske svinje ili domaće janjetine, može bit vrhunsko jelo, samo mora bit od izvornih namirnica. Svi naši restorani imaju u ponudi i ribu, školjke, ubotnice, rakove... Ali većinom je to, da prostiš, govnu brat. Bilo bi bolje da imaju čipi-čips pa da je od domaćih kumpira nego "jadransku" ribu s drugoga kraja svita, ko zna di i ko zna kad ulovljenu.
Ali šta možeš. Di je ugazija turizam, tu se tradicija ili prikinila ili se samo čini finta da postoji. Za toliku količinu turista, a govorimo o milijunima obroka šta se spremaju u sezoni, mi nemamo kapacitet ni resurse za kuvat naveliko. Ako se neko posveti izrazito domaćemu, ka šta smo mi, onda ti cili dan i cilu godinu traje samo nabava. Moraš znat male proizvođače, pa to vozit, dovozit... Totalno se posvetit. Bit samo ugostitelj. Zato bolje ništa i ne spominjat. Ne virujen ti ja u te ankete. Ajde iden kuvat, zagorit će mi – rekla nan je kuvarica.
Nije lako govorit pametno o spizi, ljudi moji. Posebno u današnje vrime, kad se jede nikad gore, a nikad se više nije govorilo o kuvanju. Ima na televiziji programa šta 24 ure prikazuju samo kužinavanje. Šteta šta niko nema vrimena za to.
Dalmacija je desetljećima kuvala uvik isto i s par iznimki. Ali šta kaže ova moja, sirovina je bila glavna. Tu našu skromnu spizu ne bi ni moga ponudit današnjim turistima. Ma skuvat ćeš mu lešo ražu jedan dan, ka egzotiku, ali sutra će mu tribat više, jače, ovoj omladini koja će i ovo lito partijat po Splitu triba force. Ka, recimo, jedan lipi burger od uvoznoga mesa plus palačinke.
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Nikola VILIĆ/SPLIT
Jel ti viruješ da su i na Veliki petak baš burgere naručivali ka ludi! To se ne minja i u sezoni i izvan sezone. Splićani su navučeni na burgere, ludi su za njima, govori jedan iskusni dostavljač
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[type] => textfield
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 33
[alias] => required_views
)
[32] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 96
[name] => FullHD image
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 34
[alias] => fullhd_image
)
[33] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 97
[name] => City Select
[value] => (0)
[type] => select
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 35
[alias] => CitySelect
)
[34] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 98
[name] => Paid Article
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 36
[alias] => paid_article
)
[35] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 99
[name] => SD na licu mjesta
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 37
[alias] => SD_na_licu_mjesta
)
[36] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 100
[name] => Important article
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 38
[alias] => Important_article
)
)
14. svibanj 2024 11:59
